June 27, 2024

Specialty coffee has learned a lot from tea-drinking cultures

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Specialty coffee culture has come a long way over the past decade or so. In many countries around the world, the number of coffee shops and roasters grows year after year – pushing the boundaries of innovation even further.

Many industries have influenced specialty coffee (and vice versa): craft beer, wine, and chocolate, for example. But one that is often overlooked is tea.

Believed to have originated in China around 2700 BC, the tea industry is steeped in tradition. From ancient ceremonies to widespread consumption in many different countries, tea has now become synonymous with hospitality, mindfulness, and connection.

This, naturally, paints a very similar picture to specialty coffee. So to learn more, I spoke to Li Di, owner of Zeng Yun Tea House, George Delichristos, co-owner of Loud Bean Roasters, Dharmaraj Narendranath, independent tea consultant, and Steve Lovegrove, board member of the European Specialty Tea Association

You may also like our article on whether green tea contains more caffeine than coffee.

Li Di pours tea into several small cups.

Tea ceremonies around the world

While the influence of tea ceremonies on specialty coffee culture may not be as overt or widespread as some might expect, the underlying principles of mindfulness, attention to detail, and sensory experience are undoubtedly present in both.

Tea ceremonies and rituals are revered in many cultures worldwide, particularly in Asian countries where tea is deeply ingrained in tradition and spirituality. 

In China, for example, tea is much more than a beverage – with ceremonies including certain clothing, decorations, and specific preparation rituals. 

Li Di is the owner of Zeng Yun Tea House in Hangzhou, China. He explains that tea is an integral part of daily life.

“Over the past decade, the aesthetics of tea rituals have become increasingly important, even the tables and seating arrangements,” he says. “Ritualistic tea gatherings have also become more prevalent in China.”

Other examples of tea ceremonies include:

  • Japanese sadō or chanoyu (which translates to “the way of the tea”) where a host prepares and serves green tea
  • A Korean darye (which translates to “etiquette for tea”) that often serve pu-er or green tea

The concept of coffee ceremonies, however, is much less widespread. One of the most notable exceptions is the traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, or Buna Qualla

In contrast to the more elaborate and formal nature of tea ceremonies, Buna Qualla is characterised by its simplicity, warmth, and sense of community – although it does still follow a set of procedures.

George Delichristos is the co-owner of Loud Bean Roasters and the 2024 Hellenic Brewers Cup Champion. He explains that preparing and drinking coffee is, of course, a daily part of many people’s lives.

“Creating small coffee rituals in your daily life can bring you closer to specialty coffee culture,” he tells me. “You can enhance everyday experiences by intertwining them with enjoyable moments.”

Independent consultant Dharmaraj Νarendranath grades and scores tea.

Assessing quality

To be categorised as “specialty”, both tea and coffee are carefully assessed and graded to be above a certain quality. This means that for both, factors like climate, terroir, harvesting practices, and processing methods are incredibly important.

Unlike the coffee industry, however, there is no universal method or standardised protocol to assess tea quality:

  • In China, region, harvest season, and the type of tea generally influence how professionals analyse quality
  • The Japanese industry assesses quality based on the type of tea, production area, and different grades
  • Taiwan’s grading system focuses on regions, mountains, and seasons
  • Countries like India, Sri Lanka, and Africa categorise black teas based on the number of whole, broken, and crushed leaves, and use intricate systems to assess leaf quality and characteristics

The European Speciality Tea Association (ESTA) works to create a more formalised definition of specialty tea by identifying key markers, such as suppliers, farms, production dates, and processing methods.

According to ESTA, you can also define the quality of specialty tea by assessing the dry leaf, aroma, “liquor” colour and clarity, flavour, and mouthfeel, as well as the appearance and aroma of the wet leaf (or brewed tea leaves). This is similar to the Specialty Coffee Association’s quality protocol, which many industry professionals use the world over.

Dharmaraj Narendranath is an independent strategic and operations tea consultant.

“Liquor characteristics (or the ‘brightness’ of the brewed liquid) are arguably the most important, especially when using tea bags as the leaves aren’t visible,” he says. “For loose leaf tea, the appearance of the leaves is more significant. Additional attributes like density and moisture content also impact quality.”

Different types of tea in traditional Chinese bowls.

What about brewing methods?

Although attention to detail and precision are both important when preparing specialty coffee and tea, the processes involve slightly different brewing variables.

George explains that grind size, extraction time, and water temperature are the most important for specialty coffee.

“These three key variables, along with other parameters, form a complex puzzle to determine how coffee extracts in the cup,” he says. “Essentially, we have to find the ‘sweet spot’ and the right balance to deliver the best-tasting result.”

Li Di, meanwhile, emphasises that personal experience and intuition are integral to preparing specialty tea, including closely observing the dry and wet leaves to assess extraction.

“We typically brew tea at 100°C (212°F), but this can depend on the variety,” he says. “We also use specific containers and steep times when preparing certain teas to achieve a desired flavour profile and quality.

“Unlike coffee beans, tea leaves are delicate and require careful handling,” he adds. “Each type of tea may require different handling methods due to variations in the size and shape of the leaves.” 

Despite these differences, there are still many similarities and crossovers between specialty coffee and tea. While variables such as temperature and extraction time are obviously some of the most important, level of brewing experience and analysis of spent grounds can help elevate coffee quality and sensory profile, too. For instance, analysing the bloom phase or the placement and shape of coffee grounds after extraction can help baristas to avoid under or overextraction.

A small green tea ceremony in China.

Is there more to learn from tea culture?

As the specialty coffee and tea industries continue to evolve, there is growing potential for further collaboration – including in competitions, which are a huge part of specialty coffee culture.

Steve Lovegrove is a board member of the European Speciality Tea Association and the commercial director at Canton Tea – a premium wholesale and direct-to-consumer tea supplier.

“More and more baristas have started to participate in matcha latte art and tea cup tasting competitions,” he says. “This trend is expected to continue, which is sure to foster a greater sense of community as specialty tea continues to flourish.”

A move towards mindfulness

But beyond competitions, there are plenty more opportunities to influence and shape trends and experiences in both industries.

“A lot of aspects of Chinese culture, for example, values metaphysics, and tea drinking is a big part of this,” Li tells me. “In comparison, coffee consumption is seen as more rational.

“It is difficult for coffee shops to incorporate elements of tea ceremonies in their daily operations,” he adds. “Coffee culture thrives on its distinct ambiance, which is different to tea. Each beverage has its own unique setting and experience.”

In recent years, however, there has been a big shift towards mindfulness in specialty coffee. “Omakase”-style coffee experiences have started to become more prominent (particularly in Asian countries), where guests are served the barista’s choice of coffee in a more intimate and experiential setting. 

Similarly, more and more consumers have become aware of the complex and nuanced flavours in specialty coffee – and intentionally seek out certain sensory profiles to enjoy the more delicate tasting notes.

A Chinese woman harvests green tea.

As specialty coffee continues to evolve, tea-drinking cultures around the world are sure to keep influencing different trends, brewing techniques, and sensory experiences.

Ultimately, this creates exciting opportunities for the two distinct worlds of specialty coffee and tea to learn from and inspire each other.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee leaf seltzer.

Photo credits: Li Di, Dharmaraj Νarendranath

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