The resurgence of blends has supported this embrace of robusta, as more roasters add them to their offerings to manage costs while maintaining high-quality standards. Following increasing demand, as well as a number of logistical and weather-related factors, robusta prices reached a record high in late 2024.

While this presents an opportunity for producers to capitalise on high prices, they need to have an in-depth understanding of robusta production to find success.

To learn more, I spoke to Russell Posin, the owner and roaster at Heron Mark Coffee, Sahra Nguyen, the founder of Nguyen Coffee Supply, and Komal Sable, the co-founder of the South India Coffee Company.

You may also like our article on why research institutions are showing more interest in robusta.

Specialty coffee’s shifting perceptions of robusta 

In the 1950s, robusta accounted for only 13% of the global coffee market; fast forward to 2021, and it comprised 40%, indicating huge market growth.

But within specialty coffee, many viewed robusta as a lower-quality alternative to arabica or a cheap blend filler. Many specialty coffee roasters simply dismissed it as unpalatable. In some cases, these assumptions were based on truths; historically, there have been fewer quality control measures in place for growing, harvesting, and processing robusta compared to arabica.

“Negative perceptions about robusta were primarily rampant among coffee professionals, perpetuated for decades through institutional teachings,” says Sahra Nguyen, the founder and CEO of Nguyen Coffee Supply, a Vietnamese coffee importing and roasting company in the US.

As a result, the market potential for robusta was stifled within the specialty coffee sector. Lower prices and weak demand meant there was little incentive for producers to invest in practices that improve quality. Consequently, fine robusta remained largely unavailable on the market even for those actively looking for it.

Today, however, robusta has made a name for itself as a solid blend component that can also shine as a standalone single origin. Fine robusta, in particular, is in the spotlight, thanks to changing perspectives in the industry.

By its definition, fine robusta is differentiated from its commodity-grade counterparts. It must have zero primary and no more than five secondary defects, and it has to display characteristics unique to its origin. As fine robusta has elevated overall quality standards, sustainability must remain a key focus when investing in its production. 

“Among coffee professionals, the whole industry is buzzing about robusta,” says Sahra. “Robusta is finally getting a much-needed rebrand.”

In her experience, Sahra says most consumers aren’t biased against robusta – they are simply influenced by the coffee industry branding it as “inferior”.

“Most consumers have been super excited about exploring a ‘new’ coffee experience, especially as we lean into robusta’s unique qualities,” she says.

Rising demand and record prices

The specialty coffee sector reexamined robusta’s reputation once arabica prices started to climb over the last two years; the average price per pound of arabica has reached nearly double that of robusta. In reaction, roasters started to source more fine robusta, initially for blends. 

“People are looking for any edge to stand out,” says Russell Posin. He is the owner and founder of Heron Mark Coffee, a US roaster that sources fine robusta exclusively and advocates for the cultivation and recognition of robusta, or Coffea canephora. 

“Robusta was overlooked and written off as inferior without good reason and without fully exploring its potential,” he adds. “There is so much untapped market potential; we can experiment with and achieve things that we didn’t even know were possible.”

As a result of the sharp spike in demand, along with climate-driven supply shortages in Vietnam, the world’s biggest robusta producer, robusta prices reached record highs in 2024.

But the growing interest in robusta isn’t just related to rising market prices. Producers, traders, and roasters are also realising its potential to adapt and mitigate the impact of the climate crisis. 

Climate change threatens wild arabica varieties with extinction. In fact, arabica is already an endangered species, and within the next 25 years, half of the land currently available to grow high-quality arabica coffee may become unproductive. 

Robusta generally produces higher yields than arabica and can grow in lower altitudes due to its higher temperature tolerance. It’s also more genetically diverse because it cross-pollinates (whereas arabica self-pollinates), which helps it fend off pests and disease, both increasing in intensity due to climate change.

Caffeine content varies among coffee crops, but generally robusta boasts roughly twice as much caffeine as arabica, which has been a key selling point for some roasters.

Investments in improving robusta are paying off

Historically, producers had been disincentivised to invest money and farming inputs into higher-quality robusta, leaving them with little power to improve sensory profiles. As a result, commodity-grade robusta was often described using unfavourable flavours, such as overly-earthy, bitter, and rubbery notes.

However, when grown, processed, and sorted according to specialty coffee standards, robusta often expresses notes of chocolate and nuts, with a distinct body and rich crema when prepared as espresso.

“The focus on ‘fine robusta’ is breaking down elitist notions of what constitutes ‘specialty’ coffee,” says Komal Sable, the co-founder of the South India Coffee Company, which partners with roasters, producers, and importers to sell Indian coffees. “It’s about recognising quality regardless of species, and empowering farmers to produce the best they can.”

Producers play a leading role in highlighting robusta’s unique qualities; post-harvest activities can account for an estimated 60% of final cup quality. Through experimentation and research, producers have found that specific processing methods work best for robusta, accounting for its higher levels of caffeine, chlorogenic acids, and other compounds compared to arabica, so that bitterness can be controlled and minimised.

Beyond traditional processing, producers are also implementing innovative processing techniques to introduce complex, nuanced, fruity, and sweet flavours into robusta.

“Only so many popular arabica varieties have been cultivated,” Russell says. “This is an opportunity to try something new with a completely different flavour profile than what most people are familiar with.” Heron Mark Coffee, for example, offers robusta processed using carbonic maceration and anaerobic yeast fermentation.

“Because so few roasters have it, fine robusta presents an opportunity to diversify your offerings and stand out,” he adds.

Improving resilience 

In the wake of climate change and declining arabica yields, more producers are likely to diversify to robusta to support their livelihoods. Fortunately, the growing demand for fine robusta is finally allowing coffee producers to invest in better production that supports the long-term sustainability of their land and communities.

“We want to build this foundation now, before – for lack of a better word – it’s too late,” says Russell. 

Although robusta is by no means immune to climate change, it’s a promising contender in farm climate adaptation. Looking ahead, its high genetic diversity could also open up even more possibilities for breeding and refining varieties for a broader market. 

Producers who already grow commodity-grade robusta can benefit from diversifying to fine robusta, too. 

“If they can increase quality, farmers could potentially get a better return out of it and improve their quality of life,” Russell explains.

How fine robusta can support the future of sustainable coffee 

A growing fine robusta market can only be built on a steady foundation of increasing consumer demand. 

“Ultimately, consumers need to buy the product to continue developing it,” Russell says. “In that same light, they’re supporting sustainability and diversity in coffee.” 

Producers, of course, need ongoing support and access to resources to invest in fine robusta. Adopting a multi-faceted approach, which includes sustainable farming practices and quality control measures, is crucial for long-term success.

“A balanced approach, prioritising biodiversity over high-yield monoculture, is essential,” Komal says. “Producers can look into selecting the best varieties based on soil, environment, and climatic conditions.”

Intercropping robusta with native cash crops and trees can also enhance biodiversity, improve soil health, and diversify their income streams.

Green coffee buyers and roasters, meanwhile, can invest in robusta through direct relationships with producers. Heron Mark Coffee, for instance, partners with the South India Coffee Company to support producers investing in improving the quality and flavour of fine robusta, utilising processing methods such as the washed process, extended carbonic maceration, and anoxic fermentation.

“The cup profiles from these fermented robusta lots are complex, fruity, and clean and truly stand out as exceptional single origin offerings,” Komal tells me. “By working with Heron Mark Coffee, we ensure consumers receive the right education, promoting a more informed appreciation of robusta.”

An important aspect of robusta education is encouraging the industry to avoid comparing the flavour profiles with arabica, understanding that it’s a different species that offers its own distinct sensory experiences.

“You wouldn’t compare mandarins to grapefruits or peaches to plums, for example,” Russell says. “So why would you do the same with robusta and arabica?”

The coffee industry should encourage producers to continue exploring diverse post-harvest processing methods and developing new flavour profiles for robusta. Together, producers and roasters can relay compelling stories to consumers around this coffee’s unique history and sustainability value.

“There is no silver bullet for climate change, and robusta is not the sole answer; however, investing in this species and the communities that grow robusta worldwide will definitely expand our learnings and opportunities as an industry,” Sahra concludes.  

Enjoyed this? Then read our guide to roasting robusta.

Photo credits: Heron Mark Coffee

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Countries like Indonesia have emerged as key markets for specialty coffee shops and chains, with a growing emphasis on quality, experiential consumption, and trending flavours.

To cater to the increasing demand for diverse and premium offerings, more specialty coffee businesses in Southeast Asia have started roasting coffee themselves. This raises quality standards to even higher levels and presents new opportunities to drive further market growth.

I spoke to three people at the Indonesian specialty coffee roaster Baked Coffee to understand more about how the rise of roasting in Southeast Asia is reshaping the region’s specialty coffee market

You may also like our article on the evolution of manual brewing in Indonesia.

How Southeast Asian coffee culture has evolved

Southeast Asia has a deep-rooted connection with coffee. Between the 1600s and 1800s, European colonisers introduced seeds to countries including Vietnam, Indonesia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. Commercial production was quickly established, especially in Vietnam and Indonesia, which are the second and fourth-largest producers of coffee in the world, respectively.

As Southeast Asia’s largest country, Indonesia’s production volumes increased to 12 million 60kg bags in the 2022/23 harvest season, which accounted for 6% of the global supply during this period. Coffee culture is a key part of everyday life for many people, but historically, the majority of higher-quality beans were exported.

Lower-quality coffee (including robusta) sold in the domestic market was often roasted dark to mask overly bitter flavours. The addition of sugar, sweeteners, condensed milk, and various spices was also popular, especially in traditional kopitiam cafés, which still serve these drinks today.

The emergence of second wave coffee in Indonesia in the early 2000s, however, fundamentally changed consumer preferences. Large chains introduced consumers to espresso-based drinks, but they cost more than 30% of the median daily income of people in Indonesia, inevitably restricting market growth.

Over the following years, the launch of domestic coffee chains spurred the demand for more affordable yet higher-quality options – making specialty coffee accessible to more people in the country.

Specialty coffee takes off

Building on the success of big chains in Indonesia, a growing number of smaller independent specialty coffee shops are opening in the country. One is Baked Coffee, a roaster and bakery that operates six locations, including grab-and-go brew bar formats, across Jakarta and Bali. The company will also open a dedicated roastery in Bali at the end of November 2024 and a flagship store in Jakarta in early 2025.

Gustav Johannes Groenendijk is the CEO and founder. “Consumers are more knowledgeable, and younger generations have more diverse preferences for coffee,” he says. “Times are changing, and with technology, consumers want something new, so their expectations become higher. This fuels the growth of the specialty coffee market.”

With a growing middle class that has a higher disposable income, premium coffee has become more accessible to Indonesian consumers who are increasingly prioritising both quality and convenience. Similar to product innovation in more mature markets, high-quality ready-to-drink (RTD) coffee is becoming more popular in Indonesia and across Southeast Asia.

Julia Ammor is the Marketing and Creative Director at Baked Coffee. She explains how the roaster sells three RTD options, including an oat milk latte and cold brew, to tap into this burgeoning market.

“The decision to launch RTD products reflects our response to evolving consumer preferences and the growing demand for convenience without compromising quality,” she says. “It’s a strategic move to cater to a market that’s increasingly seeking high-quality, on-the-go coffee options that mirror the café experience.” 

Although traditional café culture is still prevalent in Southeast Asian countries, changing consumer preferences mean coffee shops and roasters in the region are diversifying their products to cater to a wider range of needs.

“Consumers are not only more aware of specialty coffee but are also looking for ways to enjoy it beyond the traditional café setting,” Julia adds. “This shift indicates a deeper appreciation for quality coffee, as well as a readiness to explore new formats and flavours, which is a positive sign of the market’s evolution.”

The emergence of specialty coffee roasters in Southeast Asia

The growth of the Southeast Asian specialty coffee market shows no signs of slowing down, especially in Indonesia. According to data from World Coffee Portal, the country’s branded coffee shop market will reach over 4,000 stores by 2025.

To capitalise on this burgeoning industry, a growing number of Indonesian coffee businesses have started to roast their own coffee. In turn, these brands are driving the trend of roasting coffee at origin and working to retain more value in producing countries.

Given its unique position as both a producing and consuming country, many Indonesian roasters are sourcing locally grown coffee to highlight the quality and diversity of arabica and robusta.

Matt Johnson is the head roaster and head of coffee at Baked. He explains why the company exclusively sources from Indonesia.

“Why import beans from across the world when we have excellent coffee on our doorstep?  Environmentally and logistically, it just makes sense,” he says. “We also want to support and help grow our local communities by working directly with producers.”

Gustav explains that this ties into Baked’s Origin Zero roastery concept. By sourcing Indonesian coffee and roasting at origin, the roaster aims to minimise environmental impact, shorten its supply chain, and partner with local farmers in different regions of Indonesia.

“Origin Zero is our call to action and commitment to leaving a positive legacy on Indonesia’s coffee landscape,” he says. “We want to redefine what it means to be a sustainable roastery, honouring our origins while striving towards zero impact.”

Sharing a connection with producers

Indonesia’s market position is unique. As both a producing and consuming country, it drives innovation at both ends of the supply chain.

Matt says that the shared connection of being located at origin helps to strengthen working relationships. 

“During particularly wet or dry seasons, we share this experience with farmers. It reminds us that coffee is more than a commodity,” he explains. “When roasting in a country of origin, you get to build long-lasting relationships with producers, ensuring they receive higher prices and creating an immediate feedback loop.”

As part of its Origin Zero ethos, Baked also works with Indonesian farmers to implement quality control and climate adaptation and mitigation practices, supporting the future of the country’s coffee production.

“It’s exciting knowing whether on-farm experimentation and innovation will pay off,” Matt says. “Then, just weeks later, because of our proximity, we can roast and cup the coffees.”

How could the region’s market evolve in the future?

The Southeast Asian coffee market is poised for further growth and innovation in the coming years. According to data from the USDA, Indonesia’s 2024/25 coffee consumption will rise by 10,000 60kg bags to 4.8 million in total as both branded and specialty coffee shops and roasters offer consumers more choice than ever before.

As seen in more established markets around the world, Julia believes that sustainability will become a bigger priority for Indonesian specialty coffee drinkers.

“There will be a stronger push towards zero-waste practices and upcycling coffee by-products. At Baked’s zero-waste roastery, our operations primarily focus on environmental protection and inspiring others to see that meaningful change is achievable on a local scale.

“We’re also exploring upcycling and waste reduction initiatives, such as creating innovative drinks using cascara and repurposing unsold sourdough bread into a unique soft serve offering,” she adds. “Additionally, we’re investigating ways to upcycle coffee cherry skins into compost or fertiliser, ensuring they are redistributed through a short supply chain.”

Innovation in production and processing

Southeast Asia is home to some of the most established and significant coffee-producing countries in the world. As the region’s consumption grows, it’s clear that evolving consumer needs are also influencing trends in farming and processing.

“The Indonesian and Southeast Asian specialty coffee markets will keep evolving as global demand for coffee increases,” Gustav says. “Indonesia’s distinctive varieties and regions, along with the awareness of sustainability and traceability, will boost international recognition. Growing markets in the region are shifting towards specialty-grade production to meet demand, but investment in infrastructure, technology, and best practices is needed to keep up with innovation in other producing countries.”

Moreover, women are believed to account for up to 24% of Indonesia’s farmers. As women are often left out of decision-making and leadership roles in coffee production, providing support creates a valuable opportunity to improve their career opportunities and increase financial stability

“There is so much more than just the roasting aspect behind each cup of coffee,” Gustav says. “Transparency and traceability bring another level of depth towards the process, and fortunately, we have this on our doorstep as a roaster at origin.”

The evolution of the Southeast Asian coffee market has opened up new possibilities for quality, convenience, and choice for the region’s consumers. With premium coffee options now considered an affordable luxury, a new wave of specialty coffee shops and roasters are finding success in the market.

Indonesia is a key example of this explosive growth, with more and more businesses roasting locally-grown coffee. “The country’s coffee industry is evolving with the times, adapting to the changing global market while staying true to its roots,” Julia concludes.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how Indonesian robusta production has evolved.

Photo credits: Baked Coffee

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Without clarification and transparency, it can be easy to conflate these concepts, especially for consumers. Among the many issues this confusion can cause, greenwashing is one of the most prominent, harming brand loyalty and reputation.

To better understand these terms, I spoke to Kyle Freund, Senior Communications Manager at Solidaridad North America, Cris Salazar, co-founder of Santuario Ecológico Monteverde, Diego Robelo, General Manager of Aquiares Estate Coffee, Ted Stachura, Director of Coffee at Equator Coffees, and Marcel Binley,  Managing Director at Bella Barista.

You may also like our article on why soil health and regenerative agriculture are the latest trends in third wave coffee.

Breaking down the terms

Although there are key differences between regenerative, permaculture, and organic farming, they share some commonalities. A fundamental shared trait of these approaches is their roots in indigenous knowledge. 

Indigenous agricultural knowledge (or IAK) is a cornerstone of sustainable food supply chains, with many coffee producers implementing indigenous farming techniques like intercropping, terracing, and agroforestry to reduce the environmental impact of their coffee production.

“There are a variety of approaches, nuances, and definitions, so it’s really easy to get into the weeds,” says Kyle Freund, Senior Communications Manager at Solidaridad North America, an international organisation that works to improve sustainable practices in supply chains, including coffee. “Permaculture, agroecology, organic, biodynamic, regenerative, shade-grown: they all share common traits and differences, but they’re all intended to improve the agricultural sector.”

Permaculture

Perhaps the lesser-known of the three terms, permaculture is a sustainable farming approach that utilises a closed-loop system to manage waste and bolster the health of ecosystems. Bill Mollison and David Holmgren coined the term “permaculture” (from “permanent agriculture”) in the 1970s, but the practices existed long before as an indigenous philosophy of living in observation and imitation of nature. Indigenous farmers mimicked the conditions of their farming environment in order to live in harmony with it, thereby improving productivity and conserving ecosystems.

Permaculture uses methods such as cover cropping, crop diversification and rotation, no-till soil management, and organic inputs such as compost. Permaculture coffee is often farmed in agroforestry systems, which help farmers adapt to climate change through natural pest and disease control, conservation of natural resources, and plant and land buffers against extreme weather. 

Along with his sister Andrea Huerta, Cris Salazar runs Santuario Ecológico Monteverde in Costa Rica – a Blue Flag-certified permaculture education hub and coffee farm. The sanctuary uses and showcases ancestral agricultural methods, including biochar, soil erosion prevention through terracing, and the Three Sisters intercropping system.

He highlights that while permaculture systems are usually organic, farms need to be certified if they want to use the term legitimately in their marketing and branding.

Organic farming

Arguably the most recognisable term for consumers, “organic” farming is heavily associated with certification standards. “Organic certifications are highly recognised and standardised, so customers are likely to know what it means if they’re willing to dig into the details,” Kyle says. 

To certify as organic, farmers must use no synthetic inputs, such as chemical pesticides, fertilisers, and antibiotics. Producers also need to grow coffee and other crops on farmland that has been free from prohibited chemical inputs for a number of years (typically three or more).

Organic farming techniques include growing coffee under shade, intercropping, and environmentally friendly waste management. These techniques support biodiversity rather than prioritising higher crop yields over environmental health.

Many organic certifications are regulated by governments such as the US, Canada, the EU, Japan, Argentina, Australia, France, Kenya, and Ukraine.

As consumer interest in health and environmental awareness grew in the early 2010s, organic certifications became an increasingly important part of third wave coffee. In 2021, the global organic market was worth US $133 billion, growing by 24.6% within the same year.

Regenerative agriculture

Similar to permaculture, although the term “regenerative agriculture” has recently appeared on a range of products, the concept is not new. Coined by the Rodale Institute in the 1980s, indigenous communities have long practised regenerative farming.

Key elements include prioritising soil health and using climate-smart methods to sequester carbon, improve productivity, and foster healthy farming communities. 

Over the last few years, as governments and agencies strive to reduce carbon emissions, investment in certification schemes has increased significantly, most notably the Regenerative Organic Certified scheme developed by the Regenerative Organic Alliance. This uses the USDA Organic standard as a baseline and adds criteria for soil health and land management, animal welfare, and farmer and worker fairness. 

These certifications, however, have proven controversial. With no universally agreed definition, a number of organisations are effectively defining regenerative agriculture themselves. 

Moreover, because regenerative practices are adaptable to many different contexts and commodities, the definition is open to wide interpretation that can confuse customers. For example, it’s useful for consumers to know the differences between labels like ROC, RegenAgri, and Regenified because the former prohibits synthetic inputs and tilling, while the latter two definitions allow some degree of both.  

Diego Robelo is the General Manager at Aquiares Estate Coffee, a Rainforest Alliance-certified and carbon-negative coffee farm in Costa Rica. He says coffee farms can technically be regenerative without certification, mainly because environmental conditions and ecosystems vary widely across different coffee farms, meaning they require different types of input.

Additionally, he tells me that farms can be considered regenerative if they aren’t certified organic.

Why are organic and regenerative coffee becoming more popular?

Marcel Binley is the Managing Director at Bella Barista, an organic roaster and the first ROC coffee company in the UK. He says the boom in consumer interest in organic coffee has helped push demand for other sustainable coffees.

“Consumers all over the world want to know more about the coffee they’re drinking, where it comes from, and whether it’s sustainable,” he tells me.

At the other end of the supply chain, however, regenerative practices have been implemented for centuries to safeguard future production. 

“As the number of people drinking coffee increases, we should be striving for higher productivity,” Diego says. “If even one acre of coffee plants aren’t yielding adequate levels, it can cause a lot of problems for farms.”

But achieving certified status can be challenging and is dependent on a number of factors. Diego tells me that while Aquiares transitioned from an intensive, full-sun coffee farm to an agroforestry system and collaborated with researchers to build a carbon monitoring station on the estate, organic certification isn’t yet possible given its size.

Over the last few years, companies and large investment funds have started backing the regenerative movement as they recognise the major role that agriculture plays in climate change. Production systems with woody crops, such as coffee, can act as either a carbon source or sink, thus either exacerbating climate change or helping mitigate it. Ecological coffee farms have been found to have higher carbon storage and lower carbon footprints than conventional ones. 

Regenerative practices are also gaining popularity among farmers for their ability to increase farm yields and lower costs. Healthier soils and ecological pest and disease control can reduce dependence on chemical inputs like pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, and fertilisers, thereby reducing overhead costs.

Moreover, Marcel adds that certified regenerative coffee can fetch higher prices because the beans contain higher levels of nutrients and antioxidants that can improve flavour profile and potentially cup scores.

Why we need to understand these terms as distinct

Ted Stachura is the Director of Coffee at Equator Coffees, one of the first US roasters to sell ROC coffee in 2022. He says Equator has seen an increase in demand for ROC coffee, primarily from food service, wholesale, and grocery retailers.

“Generally, from a consumer perspective, regenerative coffee isn’t fully understood yet, although we have seen an increase in awareness.”

A growing number of consumers want to know more about the farmers producing their coffee. For North American consumers, this curiosity is driven mostly by concerns about reducing chemical inputs for health and sustainability reasons, according to a 2023 Fairtrade Consumer insights report.

“The decision to buy organic might be geared more towards the perception of health benefits rather than its positive impact on the environment,” Diego says, emphasising that a more holistic approach to sustainable purchasing behaviour can have a positive impact on farming communities.

“I believe when it comes to sustainability, there’s no more important aspect than traceability,” he adds.

While the strict and well-defined organic certification eliminates some guesswork for consumers, regenerative certifications have vastly different requirements, and permaculture has no certification scheme. Additionally, a bag of coffee labelled “permaculture” or “ROC” may mean it is also organic, but “organic” doesn’t imply permaculture or regenerative.

According to Ted, consumers are typically willing to pay more for certified organic and regenerative coffee. Despite the murky definitions, seeing a trusted label like ROC on a coffee bag gives consumers more assurance that it was produced responsibly. 

“Whether it’s understood or not by the consumer, there are some good feelings that are equated with having that kind of additional certification on top of the organic label,” Ted says.

Roasters should consider that “permaculture” is less understood by consumers and, therefore, less marketable, whereas organic and regenerative can be useful selling points.

“Being the first in the UK to sell ROC coffee, it gives us a big point of difference compared to our competitors,” Marcel says.

Retaining more value

These labelling systems confuse not only consumers but also roasters and producers. Confusion and disagreement about agricultural terms can affect the prices farmers receive, underscored by the importance of clear definitions and transparent trade. 

Understanding agricultural terminology is critical for coffee producers to restore ecosystem productivity, adapt to climate uncertainty, and safeguard their livelihoods. A strong grasp of the definitions of organic and regenerative is critical for producers to comply with certification criteria and equally for uncertified farms that already practice or are transitioning to organic or regenerative farming.

This knowledge allows producers to self-advocate for fair compensation amid rising market demand. Roasters can help producers capitalise on this differentiation. For example, Marcel worked with Henrique Sloper at Camocim Organic to implement the ROC process. Ted, meanwhile, recently helped one of Equator’s producer partners become the first ROC co-op in Peru. He says this gave its producers – who were previously unaware of the certification – a huge advantage in the global market.

While there is some crossover between the concepts of regenerative agriculture, organic farming, and permaculture, the differences are subtle, which makes it all the more important to understand them.

By doing so, these terms and practices can add as much value to the industry as possible – ensuring producers are fairly compensated, and companies can establish trust with consumers.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why succession and heritage are key to organic and regenerative coffee production.

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First defined by the Rodale Institute in the early 1980s, the term encompasses a wide range of farming practices that support producers’ long-term environmental and economic resilience. One of its guiding principles is improving soil health to increase productivity, minimise environmental impact, and grant farmers more control over their own supply chains.

Both large and small players in the industry are showcasing their support of and participation in these practices. Multi-nationals like Nestlé, Starbucks, illycaffè, and Lavazza are investing heavily in regenerative farming, while third wave roasters and traders such as Equator, Sucafina, Heirloom, Belco, and Bella Barista are increasingly sourcing Regenerative Organic Certified coffees.

These sector-wide shifts signal a new trend of adopting and encouraging more holistic farming practices. But to avoid the pitfalls of greenwashing and sustainable buzzword gimmicks, more work needs to be done to understand and measure these practices.

I spoke to Jorge Cuevas, Chief Coffee Officer at Sustainable Harvest, Jeff Chean, co-founder of Groundwork Coffee, and Gabriel Agrelli Moreira, Manager of Quality and Market Development at Daterra Coffee, to learn more.

Interested in attending an event about regenerative agriculture and soil health? Learn more about PRF: Farm Summit here.

The re-emergence of regenerative agriculture in coffee

The claim “regenerative” has appeared on a growing range of products in recent years, from clothing brands like Patagonia to Dr. Bronner’s soap to coffee. Although the Rodale Institute helped coin the term “regenerative agriculture” in the 1980s, the concept is far from new.

For centuries, indigenous farming communities have established and implemented regenerative farming practices that protect local ecosystems and preserve soil health, many of which are still used today.

According to Rodale’s definition, which helped bring regenerative farming to the forefront of sustainable agriculture, there is no one specific practice but rather a combination of holistic approaches that focus on increasing soil quality, conservation, and biodiversity. These include:

• Using natural fertilisers such as compost, manure, and biochar
• Integrating agroforestry systems with crop rotation and intercropping
• Anchoring soil with mulch and cover crops
• Integrating livestock grazing
• Limiting soil disturbance from practices such as tilling 
• Relying on natural pest control methods by promoting biodiversity
• Using biological products to control fungal and bacterial diseases

Jorge Cuevas is the Chief Coffee Officer at specialty coffee importer Sustainable Harvest. “The principles of regenerative agriculture often align with established good agricultural practices (GAPs) and organic farming methods,” he says. “From our perspective, and that of many farmers we collaborate with, regenerative agriculture builds upon these foundations, offering a more adaptive approach to the realities of climate change.”

As the climate crisis leads to ongoing “systemic shocks” to coffee production, improving farmers’ productivity and climate resilience has never been more pressing. The ultimate goal of regenerative agriculture is to safeguard crops against unpredictable weather, pests, and diseases. With environmental due diligence becoming a priority for both large companies and smaller specialty brands in the coffee industry, investment in regenerative practices is noticeably increasing.

Interest in regenerative coffee is growing

Global intensive food production is responsible for up to a third of annual anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions and the majority of global eutrophication of surface waters. To address these issues, many governments have turned their attention to sustainable food systems. In December 2023, UN officials at COP28 acknowledged for the first time that sustainable agriculture (including regenerative farming) is a key part of addressing climate change.

In line with government and agency goals to reduce carbon emissions and minimise the impact of climate change, a number of key players in the coffee industry have showcased their commitment to regenerative agriculture. Nestlé aims to buy at least 50% regenerative-sourced ingredients by 2030, while Starbucks is investing in regenerative agriculture, reforestation, forest conservation, and water replenishment in its supply chains.

Growing investment has inevitably led to the emergence of various certification schemes, most notably the Regenerative Organic Certified scheme developed by the Regenerative Organic Alliance.

Jeff Chean is the co-founder of Californian roaster Groundwork Coffee, which sources organic coffee. In 2022, Groundwork became the world’s first roaster to be certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance.

“Regenerative agriculture is gaining more recognition because we’re feeling the impact of global warming more and more each year,” he says. 

A steadily increasing number of third wave roasters and traders – Sustainable Harvest, Salt Spring Coffee, Canyon Coffee, and Mr. Espresso, to name a few – are shifting their sourcing to include Regenerative Organic Certified coffee.

Consumer awareness, however, is still limited. A 2022 study conducted by the International Food Information Council found that only 19% of respondents were familiar with the term “regenerative agriculture”, compared to 59% who understood the definition of organic farming.

Vague definitions pose challenges

Soil health is at the forefront of regenerative agriculture. Although coffee producers don’t till soil as often as other farmers in other agricultural sectors, soil depletion from monocropping, erosion due to aridity and fallowing, and pollution from synthetic inputs can occur on large-scale farms. Regenerative farming aims to rebuild soil that sequesters carbon, retains ample water, and fosters microbiological activity – helping to improve productivity and reduce dependence on synthetic farming inputs.

While its focus on soil regeneration is clear, it’s still difficult to define exactly what regenerative agriculture is. The term encompasses a wide range of agronomic practices, which likely adds to consumer confusion.

Although regenerative agriculture is more applicable to livestock farming and tilled crop production such as soy, corn, and wheat, the coffee industry has poised itself as a leader in the movement. Specialty coffee, in particular, is urging the global agricultural industry to agree on a solid definition for regenerative farming – especially whether social responsibility, animal welfare, and organic standards should be included.

Certifying bodies like Regenerative Organic Alliance, A Greener World, Bioagricert, and Regenified are working to develop more clearly defined standards, but grey areas still remain. Regenified, for example, permits farmers to use synthetic inputs but commit to a “replacement rate” over several years to encourage a more diverse range of farms to participate in the movement.

“How do you say we’re promoting soil health if you’re adding chemicals into it?” Jeff opines.

Regenerative Organic Alliance, meanwhile, follows USDA Organic guidelines, which state that crops must be grown in soil that had no prohibited substances applied for three years prior to harvest. 

A risk of greenwashing

No sustainability certification scheme works perfectly. But similar to the industry’s apprehension about initiatives like the EUDR, some believe regenerative certifications are well-intentioned but difficult to scale.

Moreover, farms that have implemented regenerative practices for generations have to pay to prove compliance, which some may not be able to afford. Certifying bodies may also include requirements that don’t apply to producers in all contexts and regions, which could exclude some producers who have been using regenerative farming practices for years.

These uncertainties make it challenging to accurately assess performance indicators, which puts the term at risk of greenwashing – thereby losing its meaning and value.

Jeff tells me that vague definitions and conflicting certification standards could add to consumer confusion about regenerative agriculture. Some could associate the term with organic farming, which abides by a strict set of standards – including the absence of synthetic fertilisers and pesticides. 

The first-ever PRF: Farm Summit will take place on 17 and 18 October 2024 to dispel confusion and discuss some of the most pressing issues. Held entirely on a coffee farm, this year’s event will focus on how regenerative agriculture and organic coffee production can help producers lower production costs, adapt to climate change, and maximise crop yields. 

Farm Summit will also host the inaugural Soil of Excellence competition, which will assess soil samples from some of the world’s best producers, to highlight the importance of soil health.

When done right, regenerative agriculture benefits producers

Gabriel Agrelli Moreira is the manager of quality and market development at Daterra Coffee, a Brazilian farm that works in harmony with local ecosystems and wildlife. He tells me that despite its challenges, regenerative agriculture presents a way forward for the coffee industry to thrive.

“Sustainability is clearer as a concept, while regenerative agriculture is a broad term that is still being defined,” he says. “But we have used the word ‘sustainability’ for way too long now, and people are tired of it.”

Fundamentally, the purpose of regenerative agriculture is not just to increase yields but also to protect ecosystems so producers can continue growing coffee. On a truly regenerative farm, producers can reduce their dependency on external farming inputs and produce their own fertilisers, helping to reduce overall costs. 

Regenerative crop management requires more hands-on and skilled labour, which is becoming scarcer in some farming communities. “Increasing biodiversity on a farm also increases the complexity of your operation,” Gabriel says.

But over time, producers can increase climate resilience, mitigate unpredictable seasonal production, improve long-term soil health, and conserve water – all of which help improve productivity.

While on a sourcing trip in Colombia, Jeff – who will speak on a panel entitled Certifications and Controversies: Reviewing Regenerative vs Organic Practices at PRF: Farm Summit – saw that producers who invested in no-till strategies had eliminated soil runoff and erosion, which opened up new opportunities for income diversification, including pastures for livestock. 

“There could be downsides when initially transitioning to regenerative farming,” he adds. “But over time, higher yields and a lower cost of inputs reverse these effects, not to mention producers are doing the right thing for the sake of the planet.”

Why reg ag certifications will play a key role

Certifications are by no means mandatory to grow regenerative coffee. Many producers, whether certified or not, use regenerative farming practices that minimise their environmental impact and promote soil health.

Jorge, however, explains that certifications offer some form of formal monitoring and evaluation, which can open up new market opportunities for producers.

“Third-party independent verification is one of the few tools we have to ensure both integrity and consistency. Without a framework, environmental claims can become erratic, sowing confusion and eroding consumer trust,” he says. “It can be challenging when farmers don’t see the results of regenerative practice for months or even years. But what we have seen within our networks is early adopters help pave the way by demonstrating the benefits of soil health and agroforestry on coffee farms.”

Gabriel agrees, saying that while building trust between producers, traders, and roasters is important, certification offers a level of assurance.

“A thorough auditing process from a certification body is one of the only ways to evaluate farm operations in depth,” he concludes.

Regenerative agriculture and soil health are gaining traction in the coffee industry, but more needs to be done to understand and measure these practices. Certifications will inevitably play a large part in this.

Many agree that regenerative farming is the way forward for the coffee industry. Without financial investment to support producers’ transition towards these practices, however, the term quickly loses its meaning and value. 

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why the first-ever PRF: Farm Summit will focus on regenerative agriculture and soil health.

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Throughout the 1600s and 1700s, European colonial powers exported coffee to consuming countries. As it became more accessible over the years, marketing (driven by majority-consuming regions in the Global North) became much more consumer-focused, which led to a sharp rise in consumption through the 20th century. 

Key markets like the US and Europe also generally pay higher prices for coffee, making them more attractive to exporters. This means that consumers in producing countries can often miss out on the highest-quality coffee grown in their own countries. Some exceptions to the rule exist, such as Colombia, where coffee is imported to meet demand for domestic consumption.

But in recent years, targeted, policy-driven initiatives and a growing middle class have driven domestic consumption in a number of producing countries. Although consumption levels remain comparatively lower than in key international markets, a number of coffee brands in Latin America are helping to increase awareness and demonstrate how promoting domestic specialty coffee consumption can add value to the industry.

To learn more, I spoke with Mayerling Gurdián, Heberto Rivas, and Luis Saballos of DELAFINCA COFFEE in Nicaragua.

You may also like our article on why more producers don’t market their own coffee.

Turning the tide: How specialty coffee consumption is growing in producing countries

For the most part, when compared to majority-consuming regions, specialty coffee consumption is overall lower in producing countries. But in larger cities in some prominent origin countries, the specialty coffee market is steadily growing.

According to a Specialty Coffee Association report, Brazil’s specialty coffee market share doubled between 2016 and 2018 from 6% to 12%. Similarly, the same report also found that specialty coffee accounts for between 3% and 5% of Colombia’s total coffee consumption. Furthermore, in 2018, the estimated value of the Colombian specialty coffee market was around US $1.52 billion, and is sure to have grown since.

As a result, more specialty coffee brands and coffee competitors have emerged across the country in recent years. For instance, at the 2021 World Barista Championship (WBC), Diego Campos became the first-ever Colombian to win the competition. 

Two years later, a Brazilian competitor won the World Barista Championship – a historic win for the world’s biggest coffee-producing country. Chilean barista Carlos Medina also became the first-ever Latin American competitor to win the World Brewers Cup.

How growing specialty coffee consumption supports the industry

It’s clear that rising specialty coffee consumption in producing countries has a number of benefits. Most importantly, it opens up new opportunities for local producers and roasters to tap into a growing market.

DELAFINCA COFFEE is an example of these coffee brands. The Nicaraguan company is involved in multiple levels of the supply chain, including production, roasting, and coffee shop service. The first store opened in 2016 in downtown Managua. Today, the brand operates five locations that provide 70 permanent and 25 temporary jobs.

Heberto Rivas is a co-founder of DELAFINCA COFFEE. He has extensive experience working with smallholder producers, and says that wider trends in the industry often begin at the production level of the supply chain.

“We must direct our efforts on diversifying our markets, strategically targeting the domestic market, and creating and continuously increasing demand for specialty coffee,” he says.

The importance of consumer education

The benefits of rising demand for specialty coffee at origin are evident, but the question of how to assist market growth remains. Historically, this meant exporting significant volumes of higher-quality coffee – meaning origin countries retained less value in their markets.

In a recent survey carried out by PDG Español, 55% of respondents stated that the most effective way to promote local specialty coffee consumption in Latin America is through consumer education. Over 21% of people, meanwhile, believe that offering more accessible prices is the best solution.

From these results, it’s clear that coffee brands in producing countries have the opportunity to scale their businesses in differentiated ways that can retain more value within their markets.

Education has played an increasingly key role in specialty coffee, especially following the Covid-19 pandemic. As more and more consumers have shown interest in educational courses and platforms, they have inevitably become more informed about coffee quality, brewing techniques, and more. As it helps to push quality standards higher, the wider industry benefits from this growing interest.

Luis Saballos is the barista general manager at DELAFINCA COFFEE. He believes that education is central to expanding the domestic market.

“Investing in education helps to develop a specialty coffee culture that increases consumer interest and demand,” he explains. “For us, having a coffee academy has been crucial to this. We can train our staff, as well as consumers, to learn more and experiment with specialty coffee.”

Heberto adds that DELAFINCA COFFEE is the first specialty coffee shop in Nicaragua to certify its baristas in the Specialty Coffee Association programmes. 

“We invest in our staff so they can improve their coffee brewing and customer service skills,” he says. “Our baristas can then also share their research-based knowledge with customers so they receive factual information about specialty coffee.”

How brands can encourage coffee consumption in producing countries

To support domestic market growth, it’s important that coffee companies at origin work at multiple levels of the supply chain. This not only improves coffee quality across the board, but also helps to deepen barista and consumer knowledge.

“Barista training and education are key because it’s the baristas who will encourage customers to try new coffees and different flavours,” Luis explains. 

Accessibility is also essential. As it’s marketed as a premium product, specialty coffee can sometimes alienate customers who feel they don’t have the expertise or skills to buy it. 

“We sell coffees at differentiated prices in our coffee shops, which is an effective strategy to help consumers become familiar with specialty coffee,” Herberto says. “People usually start with a house blend, and later become more interested in exclusive and unique coffees.” 

Coffee companies that operate at origin also have a unique opportunity to bring consumers closer to the production stage in the value chain. 

Mayerling Gurdián is a co-founder of DELAFINCA COFFEE. She emphasises that in addition to consumer education, product differentiation, customer service, and coffee shop experience all play a key role in supporting domestic market growth.

“Coffees served to customers and the overall coffee shop experience should reflect all the efforts made in the supply chain, including the post-harvest processing and roasting,” she adds.

Collaboration is key

Unlike roasters and importers in majority-consuming countries, coffee brands at origin can work much more closely with producers. Through its relationships with farmers, DELAFINCA COFFEE strives to be an ambassador of Nicaraguan coffee.

Mayerling tells me that the company works with growing communities in San Juan de Río Coco in northern Nicaragua, where they also operate a farm. She emphasises how this helps them to oversee quality control and traceability across the entire supply chain, and receive consumer feedback.

Value addition and brand differentiation are key principles of the coffee industry, including at origin. One high-impact solution is to promote the growth of specialty coffee consumption in producing markets.

In doing so, coffee brands at origin have the opportunity to raise quality standards across the entire supply chain, and help bridge the gap between producers and consumers.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether specialty coffee is growing faster than global consumption.

Photo credits: DELAFINCA COFFEE

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Many would agree that it’s never been more important to minimise the environmental impact of coffee production. In January 2024, the European Union’s climate service reported that the previous year was the hottest on record – driven by human-induced climate change.

Rising air and sea temperatures, as well as unpredictable weather patterns and more erratic rainfall, are sure to impact coffee producers in increasingly challenging ways. And with mounting pressure to reduce carbon emissions on coffee farms, the industry needs to support producers as much as possible.

Technology plays a key role in this, and coffee farmers require better access if they are to meet emissions targets.

To learn more, I spoke to Joao Moraes, Tizita Sileshi, and Miguel Amado at sustainable fertiliser manufacturer and crop nutrition solutions company Yara. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why soil health is crucial to regenerative agriculture in coffee production.

The growing need to reduce carbon emissions in coffee production

If not adequately addressed in the coming years, the climate crisis presents a major threat to global coffee production and the people who make a living from it. In fact, a 2023 study published in the PLOS Climate journal found that global warming will lead to “ongoing systemic shocks” in coffee farming, which is likely to reduce both yields and quality.

Many farmers across the Bean Belt are already feeling the effects of climate change – and thereby must find new ways to adapt to more erratic weather patterns. Naturally, this means that as an industry, we need to be making more concerted efforts to reduce our environmental impact.

Tizita Sileshi is the Director of Food Chain & Sustainability at Yara Americas. She explains why it’s so important to reduce carbon emissions in the coffee supply chain – particularly at farm level.

“As global coffee consumption rises, pressure on habitats and forests intensifies – emphasising the urgent need to adopt more sustainable coffee production methods,” she says. “Additionally, climate change is projected to negatively affect global coffee production, with yield reductions and changes to the suitability of land expected.”

Over the past few years, a growing number of studies have indicated that up to half of the land used to grow high-quality coffee around the world could become unproductive by 2050. There’s no doubt that this would have devastating consequences on the entire industry.

“Coffee’s carbon footprint is substantial, with production contributing over half of the supply chain emissions, mainly due to water and fertiliser use,” Tizita says. “Reducing carbon emissions has become a critical priority to mitigate impact on the planet and ensure a more sustainable future for coffee cultivation and consumption.”

Access to technology is key to reducing emissions

In many producing countries, coffee farmers are already implementing sustainable practices on their farms – and seeing tremendous results. But without access to technology to track the true impact of these measures, it can be difficult for producers to understand how they can make further improvements.

Miguel Amado is the Latin American Director for Innovation, Marketing, and Business Excellence at Yara. He reiterates that technology plays a crucial role in advancing sustainability efforts in coffee.

“It’s a key factor in the development of new farming input alternatives, such as low-carbon fertilisers,” he says. “Technology is also essential in improving agricultural management decisions made on farms, and in transitioning from reactive management models to predictive models.”

For context, reactive farm management is when producers implement different practices in response to changes that have already occurred. These changes could be insect damage to coffee plants or a loss of minerals in soil – which can have detrimental consequences to crop yields and quality.

Predictive (or proactive) farm management, meanwhile, can prevent these changes and issues from happening in the first place. This is because by collecting data and using technology, producers can predict patterns or trends before they take place, and then act accordingly.

Joao Moraes is the Director of New Ag Business at Yara Americas. He emphasises how important data collection and analysis is for coffee farmers.

“Data is directly connected to sustainability,” he says. “With carbon emissions measured per kilogram of coffee, the identification of production gaps helps drive the implementation of actionable insight and recommendations based on science and research. 

“Measuring and reporting over time is key to achieving excellent results and providing value chain stakeholders with visibility on their sustainability key performance indicators and commitments to consumers,” he adds.

Supporting producers by improving access to technology

Over the past couple of decades, it’s certainly true that access to technology has improved for coffee producers around the world – even helping to connect them with consumers. There needs to be more progress, however, in order to bolster sustainable efforts in the supply chain.

“To reduce carbon emissions at farm level, we need to integrate both technology and financial resources into robust agricultural extension programmes,” Miguel says. “These processes usually require drastic changes, where ongoing support to follow up with farmers plays a fundamental role in achieving the required impact.”

In order for producers (particularly smallholders) to implement these changes to their farming practices, they need support from other supply chain actors.

“The decarbonisation journey starts with addressing farmer wellbeing, dignity, and prosperity,” Joao explains. “The vast majority of producers need more technical and financial support, and the main driver of decarbonising coffee production is to increase yields and quality. 

“This is intimately connected to improving access to technology so we can identify production gaps and assist farmers with transitioning to more regenerative agriculture practices – and make their businesses more profitable,” he adds.

Knowledge (and data) is power

Supporting data collection and analysis in coffee production plays a pivotal role in improving sustainable practices. Tizita tells me that Yara created its new Champer platform as a direct response to this – which will be officially launched at the 2024 Specialty Coffee Expo in Chicago on 11 & 12 April.

“The idea behind the Champer platform is to improve transparency,” she says. “Some farmers are making the required investment, delivering good yields, and producing quality coffee, while others need more support to change their practices. We want to improve visibility in the supply chain of how yields and quality are increasing, as well as key sustainability indicators that traders, roasters, and consumers want to see.”

Tizita explains that the Champer platform can help producers identify and monitor key performance areas to not only reduce carbon emissions, but to also improve soil health. The platform also provides coffee farmers with actionable insight, tracks their progress in implementing new practices, and facilitates reporting to other supply chain stakeholders.

“As a result of this increased transparency, Yara (and the entire coffee value chain) can respond to issues at farm level and address producers’ needs more effectively,” Tizita tells me. “From our experience, we already know that a one-solution-for-all approach doesn’t work as well.”

Meeting carbon emissions goals is a collective effort

To be a truly sustainable process, producers need to have direct input in how carbon emissions are reduced on their farms. But it is a collaborative effort to implement these changes as effectively as possible, which means supply chain actors must work together – and technology can assist with this.

“Although Yara’s Champer was developed to target the needs of other value chain actors (mainly roasters), the success of the platform ultimately depends on mobilising the entire industry,” Joao tells me. “This includes farmers, co-operatives, NGOs, input distributors, regulators, certification bodies, traders, and research and development agencies, as well as other stakeholders.”

Consumer demand for sustainably-grown coffee is on the rise, so better traceability and transparency about how producers are minimising their environmental impact only benefits the industry as a whole.

“In addition to capturing and sharing data about production and sustainability indicators, Champer provides actionable insight to further improve regenerative agricultural practices,” Joao explains. “As a result, we can help build long-term relationships that are anchored on an in-depth knowledge base between committed farmers and other stakeholders.”

Empowering producers to make informed decisions

Reducing carbon emissions on coffee farms is not an easy task, so providing producers with support from traders, agronomists, roasters, and more is paramount. However, farmers also need to be equipped with the knowledge, skills, and insight to make their own decisions.

Miguel says that Champer places significant focus on soil health – one of the most important aspects of regenerative agriculture – for this reason. The new platform enables users to track the progress of key indicators of soil health, so producers can optimise nutrition management and monitor improvements.

What’s more, he tells me that the platform captures and generates actionable insights for a number of other variables, including fertiliser input and yields.

With more accurate baselines in place, producers can become better informed about the key areas for improvement to reach their carbon emissions goals – and potentially improve their profitability, too.

The climate crisis is already taking a toll on coffee production, so the need to mitigate and adapt to these challenges is more crucial than ever before. Reducing carbon emissions and transitioning to regenerative agricultural practices are essential parts of the equation.

Improving producers’ access to technology will undoubtedly ensure the coffee industry as a whole can hit its carbon emissions goals. But at the same time, supply chain stakeholders must band together and work collectively to ensure these efforts are as effective as possible.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring regenerative agriculture in coffee production.

Photo credits: Yara Colombia, Yara Mexico, Joao Moraes

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At the same time, certifications are also useful marketing tools – efficiently communicating more ethical and sustainable practices to roasters and consumers. 

However, given that most producers don’t market their own coffees, understanding how certifications can retain more value in producing countries is essential.

To learn more, I spoke with three coffee professionals involved in Falcafé’s Neighbors and Friends Program. Read on to find out more about how certifications are used to market coffee.

You may also like our article on certifications and direct trade in the coffee industry.

The evolution of marketing in coffee

Although the coffee industry has certainly changed over the years, its current marketing model is largely a product of its history. In turn, many smallholder farmers don’t market their own coffee – and roasters handle the majority of marketing in consuming countries.

To better understand this, we need to consider the colonial history of the coffee sector. Throughout the 1600s and 1700s, European colonial powers established the coffee trade as we know it today. As the vast majority of coffee produced during this time was exported to Europe, marketing was targeted towards consumers rather than traders or roasters – albeit in a much more rudimentary form compared to today.

This trend of marketing coffee in majority consuming countries continued over the following centuries. During the 1700s and 1800s, coffee was branded as an “exotic” product. This means it came with a higher price tag that many people couldn’t afford.

However, at the turn of the 20th century, coffee businesses started to shift their marketing focus to meet changing demand. As convenience became a more important purchasing factor, more and more consumers expected their coffee to be roasted for them. At the same time, coffee also became more affordable and accessible to the masses.

In many major consuming countries since then, coffee marketing has continued its focus on the consumer. As such, almost by default, business-to-consumer marketing remains the responsibility of roasters and coffee shops. 

Ultimately, this means most of the value in the global coffee market is created after coffee leaves origin. This is because roasting adds significant value to coffee, after which it is marketed and sold. 

While there are some roasters in origin countries, because the majority are based in consuming countries in the Global North, this is where much of the marketing takes place.

What about specialty coffee?

The foundations of marketing strategies in the coffee industry have largely remained the same for centuries. However, that’s not to say the way coffee is marketed hasn’t changed – especially with the growth of the specialty coffee sector.

Humberto Florezi Filho is the CEO of Falcafé, a specialty coffee exporter in Brazil. 

“Generally speaking, with specialty coffee, there are more direct trade relationships between producers, exporters, and roasters,” he says. “The price of specialty coffee is also based on a wider range of factors, such as quality and flavour profile.”

There are many reasons for these changes, but evolving consumer demand has played a huge role. Now more than ever, consumers want to receive more information about coffee production, as well as knowing that farmers receive a “fairer” price.

Victor Fachinetti Vuolo is the Export Manager at Falcafé. He explains how demand for more information about producers and their coffees has increased in recent years.

“Traceability is becoming a very important factor in sourcing and marketing coffee,” he says. “Today’s specialty coffee consumer wants to know how the coffee was grown, who the producer is, and where the farm is located.

“Different processing methods have also had a big impact on specialty coffee,” he adds. “Over the past few years, there have been many new processing techniques, including controlled fermentation. This means roasters need to provide more information about coffee.”

How are certifications used in coffee marketing?

With a bigger focus on sustainability, quality, and traceability than ever before, certifications have started to play an important role in coffee marketing.

In theory, certifications can prove that a specific coffee is grown or purchased in an environmentally, socially, or financially sustainable way. Producers achieve this through implementing formal agricultural training programmes, as well as adhering to a strict set of protocols and standards.

For example, to receive the 2020 Rainforest Alliance certification, producers need to comply with a number of sustainable requirements. These include safe and healthy working conditions, environmental protection schemes, and no forced or child labour practices.

Other examples of prominent certifications in the coffee industry include:

• Fairtrade
• Organic
• 4C (the Common Code for the Coffee Community)

Over the past few years, several coffee companies have also launched their own private certification schemes. Some of these are:

• Nespresso’s AAA programme
• Starbucks’ C.A.F.E. practices
• Falcafé’s Neighbors and Friend Program

In turn, including certifications on packaging means roasters and other coffee retailers can more effectively showcase their commitment to ethical business practices. 

“Certifications help to assure consumers that the coffee they buy is grown sustainably and ethically,” Humberto tells me.

Moreover, research has shown consumers are willing to pay more for certified coffee. For instance, the Specialty Coffee Association found that people paid up to US $1.36 per pound (0.45kg) more for organic coffee – with interest in other certifications also playing a role in purchasing decisions.

How do producers benefit from certifications?

It’s certainly evident that roasters reap the rewards of selling certified coffee. But do the producers who have to adhere to these standards see similar benefits?

By obtaining certifications, producers can showcase a dedication to maintaining quality, sustainability, and fair labour practices. This can help to strengthen their branding, differentiate from competitors, and even gain access to different markets.

“Certifications demonstrate producers’ commitment to quality and safety,” Victor tells me. “It affirms that their business practices have passed specific and strict performance and quality assurance tests.”

In theory, this also means farmers can receive higher prices for certified coffees.

Gabriele Maia Teajs is a producer in Brazil involved in Falcafe’s Neighbors and Friends Program.

“If farmers meet all the criteria for the certification programme, they can get a better price for their coffee,” he says. “This means they can invest more in their farms, and also improve their quality of life.”

Overcoming challenges when obtaining certifications

When opting into certification programmes, there are clear advantages for producers. However, growing certified coffee can be both financially and logistically challenging.

The process of obtaining certifications is neither easy nor cheap, with extensive documentation, audits, and ongoing compliance involved. Ultimately, this increased level of administration can take time and attention away from core farming activities, such as irrigation and quality control.

Moreover, the fees needed to obtain and maintain certifications can strain producers’ already limited resources. This is especially important considering that coffee farmers are usually paid in a lump sum once a year when they sell their harvest, so finances need to be managed as effectively as possible.

It is therefore crucial that producers receive the right level of support when applying for and adhering to certification schemes.

In response to these challenges, Falcafé’s Neighbors and Friends Program was designed to help smallholder farmers achieve similar outcomes to more traditional certifications in a more accessible manner.

“The Neighbors and Friends Program provides one-to-one agronomic assistance, as well as offering training courses in partnership with Brazil’s National Service of Rural Learning (SENAR),” Gabriele says. In turn, producers have the opportunity to improve coffee quality and yields.

“With its expertise in the specialty coffee sector, Falcafé helps Brazilian producers to sell their coffees in many different international markets,” he adds.

Support in formalising agricultural best practices

For certifications to work most effectively, they need to have strict standards and requirements. To adhere to these successfully and sustainably, producers need to receive the right level of support based on their needs.

“When we share knowledge – such as choosing which varieties to plant in certain plots of land, proper fertiliser application and management, or best practices for drying coffee – farmers can benefit and maximise yields and quality,” Victor says.

Humberto agrees, saying that support can extend beyond farming practices.

“As well as providing training on how to reduce the use of pesticides and increase productivity, we also inform producers on how to take better care of their equipment and how to work in harmony with nature,” he explains. “This helps to improve the quality of life for producers, local communities, and coffee production in general.

“Moreover, when we provide this support, we don’t charge producers,” he adds. “This makes Falcafé’s Neighbors and Friend Program more accessible for smallholder producers.”

Certifications have played an integral role in coffee marketing, and will continue to do so in the future, too. At the same time, they are also part of much broader marketing strategies that highlight a wide range of factors, including origin, processing method, and sensory profile.

While it’s up to producers to implement stricter farming practices in line with specific certifications, the responsibility to support them in these efforts must be shared.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on growing sustainability in the coffee supply chain.

Photo credits: Catenacom

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With demand for experimentally processed coffees increasing, a small but growing number of producers are starting to implement more complex processing techniques on their farms. When done right, these methods can result in distinctive sensory profiles – and even improve coffee quality.

However, this is sometimes easier said than done. Without the right level of support and access to resources, some smallholder coffee farmers can struggle to carry out experimental processing methods successfully. 

To find out more about how experimental processing techniques can help coffee producers – as well as the level of support they may require – I spoke to Jeanine Niyonzima-Aroian, founder of JNP Coffee. Read on for more of her insight.

You may also like our article on how fermentation results in fruit flavours in coffee.

Why have experimental processing techniques become so popular in specialty coffee?

Before we explore why demand for experimentally processed coffees is rising, we first need to break down how we define experimental processing methods.

Although these techniques have been used by farmers in many producing countries for some time now, there is no formal term or definition for them. We can, however, describe them as processing methods which aim to create different sensory experiences. 

For instance, some prominent characteristics of experimentally processed coffees include:

• Wine-like or “boozy” flavours
• Intense fruit flavours, including more pronounced tasting notes of tropical fruit
• Creamier and enhanced mouthfeel, as well as more yoghurt-like flavours

Ultimately, the processing method largely determines the final cup profile. There is a growing number of different experimental processing techniques – including carbonic maceration and thermal shock. But one of the most popular is anaerobic fermentation.

This is when farm workers ferment coffee in hermetically-sealed containers, such as large tanks, plastic barrels, or plastic bags. Producers can then place these containers in temperature-regulated storage areas or water tanks.

The oxygen-free environment means microorganisms will break down the sugars more slowly, so the fermentation process will take place at a reduced rate. As a result, anaerobically fermented coffees taste more complex and nuanced.

Producers can choose to carry out anaerobic fermentation in different ways. For instance, natural anaerobic fermentation uses whole cherries, which can be fermented for as long as 96 hours. Washed anaerobic coffees, meanwhile, are fermented with no skin, flesh, or mucilage on the beans. This typically results in cleaner flavour profiles.

Rising demand in the market

It’s been hard to ignore growing interest in experimental processing methods in recent years. In specialty coffee shops around the world, it’s becoming more and more common to spot at least one experimentally processed coffee on menus, which baristas usually serve as pour overs.

There’s good reason for this rise in demand. Processing methods like anaerobic fermentation can create more unique and interesting flavour profiles, which often pique the interest of many industry professionals and consumers. 

As these techniques usually require more upfront investment from producers – and are also marketed as more premium and high-end products by roasters – farmers often sell them for higher prices. 

“Most experimental processing techniques are currently carried out on a small scale because they require a certain level of investment and commitment from producers,” Jeanine says. 

She explains how JNP Coffee, a US green coffee importer which sources exclusively from Burundi, has supported smallholder coffee farmers in the remote Muyinga province to test out natural anaerobic fermentation processing methods with high levels of success.

“Producers use Bourbon, as well as other similar varieties such as Jackson, Kent, and Mibirizi,” she tells me. “We also anaerobically ferment different lots for 24, 48, and 72 hours, respectively.”

Jeanine says the producers were inspired by practices used in other coffee-growing regions of Burundi, where farmers will seal whole cherries inside of plastic bags to ferment, and then dry them on raised beds.

“We began using these processing techniques when we started to grow coffee in places where there was no access to a wet mill, but farmers still needed somewhere close by to process their cherries,” she explains. “We then discovered these methods resulted in some interesting flavour profiles.

“Producers used both 48 and 72-hour anaerobic fermentation methods, which resulted in sweeter flavours,” she adds.

Can experimental processing methods help smallholder producers overcome challenges?

It’s important to note that producers in different coffee-growing countries face their own unique set of challenges. Many difficulties, however, stem from an overall lack of access to resources to improve coffee quality and yields. In fact, around 44% of the world’s smallholder coffee producers are living in poverty.

Looking at Burundi specifically, the World Food Programme reports that some 70% of the country lives below the poverty line, with many people experiencing food insecurity, too. Although the reasons for this are incredibly complex, they largely originate from Burundi’s colonial history.

Coffee was first introduced to Burundi in the 1930s when the country was under Belgian colonial rule. Many farmers were forced to grow coffee, and few were paid for their labour.

Although Burundi became independent in 1962, decades of civil unrest and political instability have left many coffee producers unable to scale production sustainably. Moreover, agriculture is the main source of income for at least 80% of Burundi’s population. This means improving coffee quality and yields is especially important.

Processing methods as a means to improve quality

According to the Coffee Quality Institute: “post-harvest processing has the potential to not only preserve quality and food safety, but to create flavours and add significant value [to coffee]”. 

Burundi is renowned for growing coffees with fruit-forward flavours, as well as sweeter and brighter flavour profiles. But using experimental processing techniques such as anaerobic fermentation has allowed producers to unlock new sensory experiences.

“These processing methods are incredible opportunities for Burundian farmers because there’s plenty of demand for natural anaerobic fermented coffees,” Jeanine says. “These techniques have helped us to develop sensory profiles with accentuated fruit and floral notes, as well as a more pronounced body. 

“Based on different fermentation times, we have also experienced more wine-like flavour notes,” she adds.

In theory, this means producers can add more value to their coffee and sell to a broader range of buyers in different markets – potentially for higher prices, too. 

Receiving the right support

For coffee producers to implement experimental processing methods sustainably, they ultimately need better access to resources and financial support.

This is largely because there is a higher level of risk with carrying out processes like anaerobic fermentation. If farmers don’t control a wide number of variables, it’s all too easy to over-ferment coffees. This will result in undesirable flavours like overripe fruit or soured yoghurt.

For this reason, many farmers only process smaller batches of coffee using these methods to improve quality control. However, this can be costly for them. 

Jeanine explains how JNP Coffee worked with a local quality control specialist who provided technical guidance and assistance to local producers. With more rigorous systems in place, farmers were able to improve both quality and consistency.

She adds that JNP Coffee has also started providing quality control training to all its partner farms and wet mills to teach best practices for drying and carrying out experimental processing methods, specifically anaerobic fermentation.

Will more producers start to use experimental processing techniques in the future?

Given that the market for experimentally processed coffees is only continuing to grow, it’s likely the number of farmers using these methods will steadily increase in many producing countries.

Within the context of Burundi, the country’s high altitudes and volcanic soil, as well as the popular double-washed processing method, result in clean and juicy flavours. However, diversifying from traditional processing methods can also benefit Burundian farmers.

Because of this, Jeanine believes that more producers in Burundi will start to implement more experimental processing techniques. However, she emphasises the need for better support, especially with providing educational resources and the necessary equipment.

“Both of these are essential if producers are to grow high-quality coffee,” she says. “When producers have the right equipment, they can showcase what’s possible in terms of quality and flavour.”

Addressing context-specific challenges

There are many benefits to producing experimentally processed coffees, but it’s important to note that not all farmers will reap the same level of rewards. In fact, without the right resources in place, some producers may not be able to turn a profit.

In Burundi, for example, many farmers have to walk for miles to the nearest wet mill to process their coffee – which makes it extremely difficult to use the traditional (and time-consuming) double-washed processing method. 

Natural anaerobic fermentation, meanwhile, requires less water. Moreover, producers often don’t need to use equipment to depulp cherries.

“In remote areas where access to water is scarce, anaerobic fermentation can be a wonderful opportunity for producers,” Jeanine says.

While experimental processing only makes up a small percentage of coffee production, the market for these coffees is certainly growing. So it follows that some producers may be able to leverage these processing techniques to add more value to their coffee.

However, the most important consideration is that farmers have the capacity and resources to implement these methods successfully, especially after first testing them out in small batches.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether you should brew experimentally processed coffees differently.

Photo credits: JNP Coffee

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Across the industry, this level of innovation in coffee flavour development has been the most apparent at the World Coffee Championships, especially the World Barista Championship. During their routines, competitors will often explain in detail how they worked with producers to develop a specific flavour profile. 

Following this trend – and for many other notable reasons – a growing number of specialty roasters are also choosing to collaborate with farmers to create more unique (and repeatable) flavours in coffee.

To find out more, I spoke to Yiannis Taloumis, CEO and Head of Quality of Taf Coffee, and Francisco Mena, a producer at Sumava Farm and manager at Exclusive Coffees in Costa Rica. Read on for more of their insight into how farmers and roasters can work together on these projects, as well as the benefits for both.

You may also like our article on how certain compounds create fruit flavours in fermented coffee.

Why create specific flavour profiles?

Before we get into how you can develop specific sensory profiles for specialty coffees, we first need to ask why producers and roasters are interested in doing so.

For many years now, specialty coffee producers have been using farming and post-harvest processing techniques to control and alter the flavour profiles of certain coffees. This can range from growing particular lots on different areas of their farms to leaving a specific amount of mucilage on green coffee when using honey processing methods, for instance.

More recently, we have also seen an increasing number of specialty roasters partner with producers to create limited-edition coffees. These tend to have more unique flavour profiles.

There are many reasons for this, but perhaps the most obvious is that the roaster can market the coffee as a unique selling point. Owing to the fact that they are often available in smaller quantities (and tend to sell out quicker than other lots), the perceived exclusivity of these coffees can gauge more interest from specialty coffee consumers. 

Yiannis tells me many roasters want to create more unique flavour profiles to engage with different types of customers. They can also develop their own “signature” coffee.

“A roaster’s preferred flavour profiles are shaped by their own experiences and knowledge, as well as what their customers want,” he says. “At the same time, they also have the opportunity to participate in coffee production, which makes the whole process even more exciting.”

Besides developing more unconventional flavours in coffee, a roaster may also want to create more repeatable and consistent sensory profiles. These more dependable coffees are often at the core of most specialty roasters’ offerings – largely because they serve an important purpose for many consumers.

What about producers?

Francisco explains that developing customisable flavour profiles can help producers to market their coffees more effectively, as well as to establish more premium branding for their farms. However, not all producers are able to do this successfully as the majority of marketing expertise is retained in consuming countries.

“Farmers can create a clear vision of their desired sensory profile which can allow them to secure a more favourable position in the market,” he says.

As they are marketed as higher-end coffees, they typically come with a higher price tag. Theoretically, this means the producer can also receive more money – as long as the entire process is sustainable and equitable.

Developing specific flavour profiles at farm level

A coffee’s final cup profile begins on the farm. At this level, there are a seemingly endless number of variables which influence coffee quality, flavour, aroma, and mouthfeel. These include, but aren’t limited to:

• Climatic conditions – such as altitude, rainfall, soil health, and exposure to sunlight. These are also collectively referred to as terroir
• Farming inputs and practices – fertilisers, pruning, and more
• Harvesting practices – hand picking vs. mechanical harvesting, level of cherry ripeness, etc.
• Post-harvest processing techniques – such as processing methods, grading, sorting, and more

All of these factors will have an effect on a coffee’s sensory profile to different extents. With a more thorough understanding of how, producers and roasters can control these variables to enhance more desirable characteristics. These generally include sweetness, acidity, and body, as well as any distinctive flavour notes.

Given the wide range of variables, some producers and roasters reverse engineer the process of developing a flavour profile. This is when the roaster first selects a particular sensory profile they are looking for. If sustainable to do so, the producer can then implement the appropriate farming and post-harvest processing techniques to achieve said flavour profile.

Before considering this type of collaborative project, Francisco emphasises that organisation is key.

“Both the producer and roaster need to understand and prioritise the importance of order and care with every step of the process,” he says. “For example, they need to think about selecting the plot of land to grow the coffee, as well as how clean the milling stations are.”

Choosing a variety and processing method

Before deciding on a set of farming and post-harvest processing practices, producers and roasters need to select which variety (or potentially coffee species) to use. Ultimately, this will have a huge impact on the desired sensory profiles – mainly because different varieties have different flavours.

Francisco tells me he grows several varieties at Sumava Farm, including Caturra, SL-28, Villa Sarchi, and Gesha. For the collaboration with Taf Coffee, he explains they chose Villa Sarchi. This is a natural mutation of Bourbon, which causes the plant to grow smaller. 

“When Yiannis came to our farm in March this year, we measured the Brix content of the cherries,” Francisco says.

Brix readings are used by many industries to measure the sugar content of liquid, including for coffee cherries. Based on these readings, producers are able to determine the flavours and aromas of a certain coffee, as well as to assess how ripe coffee cherries are.

“Only very ripe cherries were harvested for the Ariston micro lot coffee,” Yiannis says, which helps to increase coffee quality. He explains that the name derives from the Greek word for “excellence” or “the best”.

Following this, producers and roasters must decide on a processing method which highlights the coffee’s best qualities. Yiannis and Francisco explain they used a red honey processing method to enhance sweetness and complexity.

“We sun-dried the parchment coffee on patios to bring out more of the fruity flavours, too,” Francisco says.

Why should producers and roasters work together on these projects?

When collaborating to develop specific flavour profiles, it’s imperative that specialty coffee producers and roasters work together.

“Roasters need to develop close working relationships with producers, which are established through long-term partnerships,” Yiannis says. 

This is a concept often referred to as relationship coffee, which largely revolves around building trust between roasters and producers. The idea behind these partnerships is to encourage long-term buying, rather than roasters making a smaller number of one-off purchases. In turn, roasters are also likely to pay higher prices for certain coffees.

There are several key reasons why strong working relationships are essential to these kinds of projects. Arguably the most important is that developing a specific flavour profile requires producers to implement strict protocols – some of which may differ substantially from their usual farming practices. These can require significant upfront investment, and can quickly increase costs, too. As such, it’s important for the producer’s stability that a buyer of these coffees is already in place.

Franciso explains that building trust between producers and roasters helps to mitigate any risks, and ensures that the former receives the right level of support to take on any additional costs.

“A long-term relationship brings trust to new projects,” he says. “Together, farmers and roasters can better understand how to plan at farm level and during the harvest season.”

Yiannis adds: “Equally important is that the producer’s financial security is guaranteed, regardless of the outcome.”

Open dialogue

One of the core tenets of relationship coffee is transparent communication between roasters and producers. For the working partnership to be as successful and sustainable as possible, both parties must benefit.

Alongside discussing best practices for farming, processing, and roasting, Yiannis emphasises that both roasters and producers need to remain open-minded and collaborative. Ultimately, a free exchange of ideas and opinions can mean that any potential problems are resolved more quickly.

What are the advantages of developing a specific sensory profile?

There are many benefits of tailoring a coffee’s flavour profile for both producers and roasters. However, it’s still important to note that taking on such a project will require additional resources and labour, and will result in higher production costs. In line with this, producers need to make sure they are able to absorb these additional costs as sustainably as possible.

Yiannis tells me that the overall process can be an exciting experience for both parties.

“Creating a custom coffee like Taf’s Ariston – which will be launched soon – is a fascinating process for both the roaster and the producer,” he says. “Not only do they create a truly unique product, but they can also offer an exclusive experience to customers.”

As well as selling a high-end coffee for a premium price, roasters can also develop more consistent-tasting coffees – and thereby build more trust with their consumers.

Furthermore, developing a specific flavour profile can improve a roaster’s ability to effectively communicate tasting notes to their customers, as well as disseminate more detailed information about origin and coffee production.

What about producers in particular?

For producers specifically, projects like this means they can experiment more with farming best practices. In turn, they can not only create new sensory profiles, but they can also understand more about how to tweak different variables to achieve a repeatable flavour profile – helping to build trust with green buyers and roasters, too.

For producers and roasters, developing specific flavour profiles can unlock a new realm of possibilities for specialty coffee. However, at the same time, establishing a mutually-beneficial and sustainable working partnership is an essential part of this.

When done right, customising coffee flavour, aroma, and mouthfeel allows roasters to market more exclusive coffees. Producers, meanwhile, can add more value to their coffee.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how controlled fermentation processing methods can enhance coffee flavour and quality.

Photo credits: Francisco Mena, Yiannis Taloumis

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To add to this, El Salvador also boasts unique microclimates and terroir which contribute to the production of high-quality coffee. As a result, at the 2022 Cup of Excellence (CoE) El Salvador auction, four coffees received over 90 points – certainly an indication of growing quality.

However, while quality is clearly on the up, prices still haven’t caught up with it. But these scores at auctions naturally draw comparisons to other producing countries with a reputation for high-scoring coffees. Among these is Panama.

This begs an important question. The story of Panamanian Gesha is familiar to specialty coffee professionals all around the world. So, with a unique variety already associated with El Salvador that can clearly yield outstanding quality – could the country also leverage Pacamara to achieve similar results?

To find out more, I spoke with two Salvadoran coffee professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say about the future of the country’s coffee sector.

Interested in attending a world-leading coffee event in El Salvador? Learn more about PRF El Salvador here.

A history of coffee in El Salvador

Before we discuss El Salvador’s potential and whether or not Pacamara can be leveraged like Gesha, we first need to look back at its history of coffee production.

It’s believed that coffee was introduced to El Salvador around 1740. In the years following, coffee quickly became one of the country’s biggest cash crops. 

By 1880, exports of coffee had significantly surpassed other commodities, especially indigo (a natural dye), which was also another major cash crop. In fact, between the late 1800s and mid-1900s, El Salvador was known as “the Coffee Republic”.

To encourage the continuing growth of the country’s coffee sector, the Salvadoran government offered farmers a number of benefits. These included a seven-year coffee tax exemption, as well as immunity from partaking in military service. 

However, following a civil war which began in 1980, the country underwent a period of significant political and economic turmoil. In turn, El Salvador’s coffee production dropped by an estimated 19%.

In 2014, the Salvadoran government began to focus on reviving production, but since then, annual production volumes have yet to reach historic highs. 

Between 1963 and 1989, the country produced an average of 2.5 million 60kg bags every year. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, El Salvador will produce some 619,000 60kg bags in the 2022/23 harvest season.

What makes Salvadoran coffee unique?

Although El Salvador currently produces significantly less coffee than in previous years, the country is renowned for its high-quality shade-grown varieties. The most popular are:

• Pacamara – a variety which originated from a cross between Pacas and Maragogype.
• Pacas – a natural mutation of Bourbon, similar to Caturra in Brazil and Villa Sarchi in Costa Rica.
• Bourbon – a tall-growing plant characterised by its low yields and high cup quality.

Rodrigo Giammattei is the General Manager at Café Caté, an exporter and roaster in El Salvador and Canada.

Rodrigo explains that because high-yielding varieties were never introduced to farmers, and many farms aren’t located in areas which receive intense sunlight, more than 50% of the country’s farms plant high-quality varieties.

However, this wasn’t always the case. Rodrigo adds that in the early 1900s, Bourbon, Pacas, and Pacamara collectively only made up around 4% of the coffee plants on Salvadoran farms. Today, the International Coffee Organisation estimates that Bourbon alone accounts for 62% of the country’s coffee production. Pacas and Pacamara, meanwhile, account for around 31% and 2%, respectively.

Moreover, El Salvador’s fertile volcanic soil, high altitudes, and vast expanses of shade cover also help to produce high-quality coffee with unique and desirable sensory profiles.

Maria Pacas is a producer at Café Pacas in El Salvador. She explains that coffee is emblematic for Salvadoran people. This is because much of the country’s infrastructure was developed as a result of its booming coffee sector, which has led many producers to feel passionate about their work.

Unique varieties

At Café Pacas, Maria says there are 64 different varieties, one of which was first discovered on one of its farms. 

She explains that when Café Pacas first acquired Finca Los Boletos, farm manager Ruperto Bernardina Meche found five coffee plants which produced different kinds of cherries.

The producers then harvested and processed these cherries separately to others on the farm. Samples were sent to traders and roasters, who scored these coffees 90 points or more.

When tests were conducted, results came back inconclusive – their genetic lineage was effectively unknown. However, we now know the coffee as the Bernardina variety – named after the farmer who discovered it. 

“Many people believe that Bernadina is a natural mutation between Bourbon and Pacas, which were already growing in El Salvador,” Maria says.

In terms of its genetics, Bernadina is 70% identical to Gesha, while the remaining 30% of its genetic material has been linked to coffee from the Agaro region in Ethiopia. This results in a highly desirable flavour profile, with some coffee professionals describing notes of jasmine and stone fruit flavours.

Could varieties like Pacamara become more exclusive?

Given its association with high-quality shade-grown coffee and the point scores that their lots are capable of, there is clearly potential for Salvadoran coffee to become more sought-after.

As mentioned previously, there are comparisons emerging between El Salvador and Panama – another Central American country which is known for producing highly-prized coffee.

Despite the fact that Gesha originated from Ethiopia, it is mostly associated with Panama’s coffee sector. Gesha took the global coffee industry by storm in 2004 when it received US $21/lb at the 2004 Best of Panama (BoP) auction – a record high at the time.

In the years since, prices paid for Gesha have only continued to increase. In fact, at the 2022 BoP auction, the top-scoring coffee received the highest-ever bid of US $2,000.49/lb. Proud Mary Coffee recently sold the coffee – a natural processed Gesha – for US $150 per cup at its US locations.

However, although El Salvador is growing more and more 90+ point coffees, prices paid per pound are still an astronomical distance from those paid for record-breaking Panamanian coffees. So, is there scope for this to improve? And could Pacamara come to rival Gesha?

How important is marketing?

“We have the terroir, we have the varieties, we have the soil quality, and we have the farming best practices,” Rodrigo says. “We just need to improve our marketing skills.”#

Marketing is a key topic at every step of the coffee supply chain – and production is no exception. And there’s no doubt that it has been a key part of the journey of Panama Gesha; the Central American country is now arguably more associated with one of specialty coffee’s most well-known varieties than Ethiopia, where it originally comes from.

A huge part of this is BoP – clearly a platform which Panama leveraged to catapult Gesha to become a new darling of specialty coffee in the mid-2000s. This was a marketing push the likes of which specialty coffee hadn’t really seen before.

Maria agrees with Rodrigo, saying: “When you market your company, you need to highlight what makes your brand different and unique.

“Sadly, Salvadoran producers have not been able to highlight those differences as effectively as possible so that consumers notice and appreciate them more,” she adds.

If this were to change, producers could push Pacamara as an individual variety renowned for its quality and one that grows predominantly in El Salvador.

Exclusive boutique auctions for high-scoring lots, partnerships with third wave coffee roasters associated with innovation, and investment at trade shows in major consuming countries could all be ways to push this – but this would require a lot of funding.

Differentiation is key

Although comparisons to Panama are somewhat applicable, Maria emphasises that El Salvador still needs to retain its uniqueness.

“I don’t think the goal should be for El Salvador to become another Panama because our country’s coffee sector is very different to Panama’s,” she says. “Our farming practices, our varieties, and our producers all make our sector unique, so we need to highlight all of these characteristics.”

The question now is whether or not marketing efforts like BoP are replicable in other producing countries like El Salvador.

In reality, the investment required promises no results, especially when we consider that BoP holds most of the market share and almost all of the awareness for auctions of its kind.

Along with Gesha, the Pacamara variety consistently receives some of the highest scores at the CoE El Salvador competitions thanks to its exceptional cup quality. However, its beans are very large, which can pose challenges for roasters.

“From my own experience roasting Pacamara, you need to drop the temperature slightly before loading the roaster,” Rodrigo says. “Per batch, we also roast 20% less volume than we would with the Bourbon variety grown at a similar altitude.”

Looking to the future

As we’ve established, there is clearly plenty of potential for Salvadoran coffee. A big part of this includes hosting more groundbreaking coffee industry events, such as PRF El Salvador, which will take place on 16 and 17 March 2023 at the Salamanca Exhibition Centre in San Salvador.

However, both Maria and Rodrigo agree that the future of the country’s coffee sector ultimately depends on whether producers can market Pacamara and other varieties on the international stage.

Moreover, they say it’s also important that Salvadoran producers work together on these efforts. As part of this, there needs to be more encouragement for more women and younger people to join the coffee sector.

The role of women and young people

Maria explains that historically, there has been little collaboration between Salvadoran producers. She says this is largely because of differences in opinion. However, in recent months, we have seen the inclusion of women and younger people bolster co-operation in the sector.

“The inclusion of women in the Salvadoran coffee sector has been fundamental,” Maria tells me. “Producers are able to openly share farming practices, processing techniques, and how they market their coffee.”

Rodrigo says that some farmers are starting to focus more on producing higher yields, while others are looking to grow more pest and climate-resilient varieties. And given that rainfall is both increasing and becoming more unpredictable in El Salvador, adapting to the impact of climate change is an important consideration for many.

However, Rodrigo adds that these new varieties can sometimes produce lower-quality coffee. Ultimately, he says maintaining a balance between quality, quantity, and resiliency to pests, diseases, and climate change will be key to the future of the country’s coffee sector.

It’s clear that El Salvador is well on its way to becoming a “boutique” coffee origin – especially with industry-leading events like PRF set to take place in the country in the coming months. 

However, given that El Salvador can’t compete as a high-volume origin, the question for the years ahead lies in how well the country can compete against more exclusive origins, such as Panama. Marketing is one key component of this, but this is a complex challenge that has no overnight solution.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on speakers and panellists for PRF El Salvador.

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