In the misty peaks of Jamaica’s Blue Mountains, a quiet revolution is transforming one of the world’s most prestigious coffee origins. 

While Jamaica has long commanded higher prices in the global market, the country’s coffee sector is undergoing significant changes that promise to reshape how it reaches consumers worldwide.

As specialty coffee markets expand and new consumer demographics emerge, Jamaica’s traditional coffee sector is adapting through innovative production models, strengthened farmer partnerships, and modernised processing techniques that honour the island’s coffee heritage while meeting contemporary market demands.

To learn more, I spoke to Peter Thomas at Blue Mountain Estates Coffee. 

You may also like our article on what Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee is.

Complex yet resilient: A history of coffee in Jamaica

Jamaica’s coffee sector carries the weight of a complex and often difficult history that mirrors the broader colonial legacy of the Caribbean region. 

When the island was under British colonial rule in the 18th century, coffee cultivation flourished to such an extent that Jamaica became one of the world’s biggest coffee producers. By 1790, the colony had established itself as a major economic force in the global coffee trade, with vast plantations operating across the island.

However, the abolition of slavery in 1834 significantly altered Jamaica’s agricultural landscape, leading to a substantial decline in large-scale coffee production. 

Extensive estates were gradually divided and redistributed, with many rented or sold to smaller operators. This transition marked the beginning of Jamaica’s transformation into a predominantly smallholder coffee economy – a characteristic that continues to define the sector today.

Despite these historical upheavals, Jamaica’s coffee industry has demonstrated remarkable resilience.

“Coffee has a long – and, like most agriculture in the Caribbean, once challenging – history in Jamaica, though the industry is a source of great pride for the island today,” says Peter, the general manager at Blue Mountain Estates Coffee, an exporter specialising in Jamaican coffee which focuses solely on direct trade relationships. 

Today, the island produces one of the world’s most sought-after coffees: Jamaica Blue Mountain. Grown on the island’s highest peaks, this coffee’s scarcity and prestige have maintained its reputation for exceptional quality, commanding premium prices that exceed those of most coffee origins.

Currently, approximately 80% of Blue Mountain farms span less than five acres, with coffee production distributed among roughly 8,270 farmers across the island. Nearly 6,000 of these farmers cultivate coffee specifically in the Blue Mountain region, working within just 14,000 acres designated for certified Blue Mountain coffee production. 

This fragmented structure, while preserving traditional methods and community ownership, has also created barriers to modernisation and market access that innovative producers are now working to address.

Why Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee became so popular

The exceptional reputation of Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee stems from a combination of geographical advantages, rigorous quality standards, and generations of cultivation expertise. 

Grown exclusively in the Blue Mountains at elevations between 3,000 and 5,500 feet, this coffee benefits from ideal growing conditions, including rich volcanic soils, consistent rainfall patterns, and cool temperatures that slow cherry maturation, resulting in denser beans with complex flavour profiles.

The exclusivity factor cannot be overstated; Jamaica produces less than 0.01% of the world’s total coffee supply. Certified Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is protected under the World Trade Organisation’s Geographical Indication status, safeguarding both quality standards and cultural heritage while ensuring it maintains its position as one of the world’s most highly prized coffee exports.

Global demand continues to intensify, particularly in established markets like Japan, which has historically imported approximately 70% of Jamaica’s Blue Mountain production. However, emerging markets, including China and the United Arab Emirates, are showing increasing appreciation for luxury coffee products, creating new commercial opportunities while intensifying competition for Jamaica’s limited supply.

“Our business model is tailored to fulfill a growing demand in the region, especially as key markets, such as Asia, exhibit an increasing appetite for specialty coffee,” Peter says.

Traditional challenges persist across the sector, with many producers struggling to meet required export volumes while keeping pace with international innovation standards. This supply-demand imbalance has created opportunities for forward-thinking operations that can scale production sustainably while maintaining the quality standards that define Blue Mountain coffee.

For instance, Blue Mountain Estates Coffee has over 1,300 acres of land, positioning itself as one of the largest employers in Portland Parish. It has also established strong partnerships with hundreds of smallholder producers to meet this growing international demand, even when it exceeds individual farm production capacity.

“The global coffee market is increasingly segmented into specialty, certified, and premium coffee options, which has changed the traditional workings of the worldwide value chain,” Peter says.

Producers are making substantial investments in production infrastructure, processing facilities, and export operations, helping drive overall quality improvements across the Blue Mountain region. Blue Mountain Estates Coffee, for instance, is a lead sponsor of the Jamaica Coffee Growers Association, significantly improving the livelihoods of the island’s farmers while ensuring a steady global supply of Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee.

This community-focused support extends beyond financial backing to include technical assistance and the development of agricultural infrastructure. Research indicates that historically, only 3% of independent coffee farms received adequate technical support from extension services or government programmes, creating significant gaps that modern approaches are working to address.

How producers are continuing to innovate

While quality metrics and production volumes show encouraging improvements, Jamaica’s coffee farmers continue to face significant challenges, particularly within traditional trade models where producers receive relatively small percentages of the final retail profits. This inequity hampers their ability to improve their socio-economic livelihoods, despite premium prices paid for Blue Mountain coffee in international markets.

“Many smallholders feel they haven’t received enough support over the years to enhance their yields, and most think that an equitable stake in the coffee value chain is out of reach,” Peter explains, describing systemic imbalances that have contributed to persistently modest production levels.

Contemporary operations, such as Blue Mountain Estates Coffee, are pioneering community-focused direct trade models that represent fundamental shifts in Jamaica’s coffee sector. Rather than relying on traditional processors who often serve as intermediaries, innovative producers collaborate directly with small, local farmers to leverage their expertise while pooling resources for mutually beneficial supply chains.

The interpersonal nature of these relationships is central to the success of modern operations. Progressive companies emphasise building genuine connections with their farmer partners, creating sustainable working relationships where mutual success becomes the foundation for long-term collaboration.

“We know our staff and farmers personally; we even remember their nicknames, which is a term of endearment traditionally used in the Blue Mountains areas of Jamaica,” Peter tells me. “We genuinely care about their success, as their success is essential for ours.”

Practical support for farm improvements represents another crucial innovation. Through employed extension officers and agricultural consultants, Blue Mountain Estates Coffee works with partner growers to identify necessary infrastructural and agricultural updates, then develops practical solutions for funding and implementing improvements.

Innovative farm syndication models represent additional breakthroughs in this space. These approaches enable multiple investors to purchase a shared ownership stake in coffee production units, providing the capital needed for modernisation while ensuring sustainable returns. This model has proven particularly effective in luxury coffee-growing regions where high-quality production typically requires substantial upfront investment.

Through these models, producers can secure guaranteed farmgate prices while investing in modern agricultural techniques, including soil regeneration, biocarbon processing, microbial preparations, and advanced fertilisation methods.

Results from these innovations are increasingly visible in both production outcomes and community development metrics. Farms experience higher yields and improved productivity, resulting in increased household incomes and an enhanced quality of life for farming communities. Unlike traditional arrangements where farmers shoulder most risks independently, modern models provide ongoing support and shared investment in long-term sustainability.

“The positive impact of support through our Coffee Grower Float programme has resonated community-wide through training and extension services,” Peter says. “We introduced updated growing technology and sustainable fertiliser management to our local partners.”

Community impact extends throughout the region as these innovative approaches demonstrate practical pathways for addressing historical inequities while maintaining the exceptional quality standards that define Jamaica’s Blue Mountain coffee. 

The transformation represents more than business innovation; it embodies a renewal of the collaborative spirit that has sustained Jamaica’s coffee communities for generations, now enhanced by modern agricultural techniques and equitable trade relationships that benefit everyone in the supply chain.

As Jamaica’s coffee sector continues to evolve, innovations in direct trade, community partnerships, and sustainable investment create new opportunities for both producers and consumers to participate in and experience the legacy of Blue Mountain coffee. 

The sector’s demonstrated resilience, combined with forward-thinking approaches to addressing systemic challenges, positions Jamaica’s coffee industry for continued growth while preserving the cultural traditions and environmental stewardship that have made Blue Mountain coffee one of the world’s most highly-prized coffees.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the rise of Caribbean coffee roasters.

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Producers, roasters, and baristas alike are revitalising the island’s coffee industry through a growing focus on specialty coffee – and it’s reshaping the future of Puerto Rican coffee.

I spoke to Omar Torres and Kathy Muir at Gustos Coffee in Puerto Rico to learn more.

You may also like our article on the rise of Caribbean coffee roasters.

A history of Puerto Rican coffee

Coffee has been an integral part of Puerto Rican culture since its beginnings.

“There is a lot of pride in our coffee; it’s part of our culture and it’s in our blood,” says Omar Torres, the CEO of Gustos Coffee, which was first established by Omar and his wife, Grisel León, in 1999. Gusto’s farm is in Yauco, and the roasting facility is in San Juan.

“Almost every family in Puerto Rico at one point in time has or had a family member who was working in the coffee industry,” he adds.

The island has been growing coffee since the 1730s, when Spanish colonial powers introduced it as a cash crop. During this time, most coffee grown in Puerto Rico was consumed locally.

By the 1890s, the small island had established itself as an international coffee powerhouse. At its peak, Puerto Rico grew over 13.6 million kg of coffee.

“It was the golden era of coffee,” Omar says. However, the period that followed was in stark contrast. 

A major blow to Puerto Rican coffee production came in 1899, when the US government annexed the island from Spanish colonial rule. Puerto Rico’s farmers were henceforth incentivised to grow sugarcane, and coffee production dropped significantly.

Hurricanes have also played an unavoidable role in the island’s coffee story.

Tropical Storm San Liborio was one of the first recorded storms, which devastated the island’s southwest coffee lands in 1815. At the turn of the 20th century, an onslaught of hurricanes ravaged Puerto Rico, having disastrous consequences for its agricultural sector.

Moreover, the economic and socio-economic blow of hurricanes arguably worsened under US annexation. In the early 1900s, hurricanes frequently swept through already struggling farms. Tariffs imposed by European nations nearly halted Puerto Rican coffee imports, while Brazil became the primary source of coffee for the US.

Resilience defines the island’s coffee sector

With its coffee lands destroyed, Puerto Rico began relying on imported coffee in 1929 to meet local demand. By 1950, coffee had become a firmly established import industry; to this day, around two-thirds of the coffee consumed on the island is still imported.

“That felt like the beginning of the end of Puerto Rican coffee farms,” Omar says. 

In the 2010s, the island’s coffee production was already at an all-time low. Then, Hurricanes Irma and Maria struck in 2017, destroying upwards of 90% of the island’s coffee plants.

“Trees and farms were decimated,” Omar recounts. “To rebound from that was very difficult because we weren’t prepared.”

Hurricane Isaias hit in 2020 and set back the island’s coffee production once again.

Today, Puerto Rico’s coffee farms resemble something close to pre-Maria landscapes. But the lingering fear of another hurricane remains.

Still, producers remain resilient. When coffee farms were devastated by Hurricane Maria, Gustos Coffee worked for almost two years to rehabilitate their remaining trees and initiate replanting efforts. The company grew and distributed 100,000 trees to farmers in Yauco, along with 70,000 packages of essential supplies. 

“After a hurricane occurs, it’s common that the communities who live in the mountains leave because there’s nothing to sustain them there,” Omar says. “We needed to support these communities, providing them food and essential amenities, so that they would stay, and the farmers in the area would be motivated to replant their farms.” 

These efforts evolved into the Gustos Foundation, which has supported replantation efforts on the island. Gustos Coffee also opened a centre in the mountains of Yauco, where computers and printers are available for farmers to apply for agricultural grants and reimbursements.

Why key production challenges persist

The costs of production inflated drastically when the island became an unincorporated U.S. territory, subject to numerous trade barriers imposed by the Jones Act. US export tariffs, for example, make Puerto Rican coffee cost nearly three times as much as comparable quality coffees from other countries. 

US protectionist trade regulations also make it difficult and costly for Puerto Rican roasters to import green coffee. The US and Puerto Rico Departments of Agriculture are the only entities that can legally import green coffee into the island. 

An oligopoly of large roasters buys a vast majority of this imported coffee to blend with domestically grown beans. Independent roasters are largely prohibited from importing green coffee, and importing semi-roasted or fully roasted coffee incurs staggering import taxes.  

Production costs are exacerbated by labour shortages on coffee farms, which result in unpicked coffee rotting on the trees. The island’s ocean-locked borders and US immigration policies limit the flow of much-needed migrant labourers. Many coffee pickers on the island sometimes harvest unripe cherries in order to yield profitable volumes.

Additionally, farm owners must pay coffee pickers the US federal minimum wage, which essentially ensures that all Puerto Rican coffee is fair trade; however, this increases costs significantly.

Puerto Rico’s agricultural structure also keeps coffee prices low and disincentivises farmers to grow it. Since the last half of the 20th century, many have abandoned coffee production in favour of more profitable crops or have left farming altogether.

Companies like Gustos have helped farmers by paying them above fair prices for high-quality beans. This has caused a revitalisation of younger farmers to start growing coffee.

How Puerto Ricans are revitalising their coffee industry

After experiencing decades of failed aid programmes and a lack of government support, many farm owners and labourers have lost hope for significant policy change anytime soon.

Still, they are finding ways to invest in their island’s coffee sector.

“Puerto Rican coffee is more than a crop; it’s a symbol of our heritage and resilience,” Omar says. “We’ve been through so many hurricanes, and we always stand up the next day.”

In a testament to this perseverance, Gustos Coffee resumed operations within three days after Hurricane Maria, despite lacking electricity, fuel for delivery trucks and generators, and a roof on their warehouses and offices.

For over a quarter century, Omar and Grisel have invested in specialty coffee production and promoted the consumption of Puerto Rican specialty coffee. The company initially began selling coffee vending and espresso machines, but quickly expanded to growing and roasting coffee to gain more control over its supply chain.

“I realised I couldn’t get quality coffee from local roasters, so I started roasting my own,” Omar says. “We wanted to elevate the quality of coffee in Puerto Rico, and at the same time, we wanted to support the local farmers.”

The future of Puerto Rico’s coffee industry lies with specialty coffee

Producers, roasters, and baristas alike believe that the fate of Puerto Rico’s coffee industry relies on advancing quality standards. On-farm innovation, equitable trade practices, and education are key to these efforts.

Little of the island’s coffee meets specialty-grade standards, and the majority that does is exported abroad. A small but passionate cohort of producers is hoping to change this. 

Some are innovating with climate-smart farming practices, new varieties, and experimental processing methods, opting to absorb the high costs of production. This effort has sparked a revival of the Puerto Rican coffee industry, producing internationally acclaimed specialty coffee. 

Optimism is also buzzing among Puerto Rican producers, as the US’ universal trade tariffs could give their coffee a competitive edge in the global market. Not only is Puerto Rico exempt from import levies in the US market, but recent record C prices are narrowing the gap between the price received by Puerto Rican farmers and their costs of production – although not completely closing it.

These incremental economic wins may benefit the growing number of Puerto Rican farmers who are endeavouring to produce experimental microlots of specialty coffee.

Gustos Coffee demonstrates the trade structure necessary for advancing Puerto Rican specialty coffee. Core to their philosophy is paying farmers immediately profitable prices. This starkly contrasts the historical trade model in Puerto Rico, in which the government guaranteed farmers the sale of their coffee, but commonly at far below the cost of production. Farmers had to rely on incentives and grants from the USDA to break even.

To further support farmers, the company has also invested in a processing mill. 

“We have complete control of coffee quality from the moment it’s harvested to when we roast and serve it,” Omar explains. “When I speak to farmers, their encouragement and enthusiasm are very strong, and they are continuing to replant additional acres every year.”

Investing in education

As in many global markets, improving access to education is crucial for supporting the growth of specialty coffee.

In 2019, Gustos Coffee opened Academia de Café as Puerto Rico’s second certified Specialty Coffee Association campus, offering primarily Spanish classes, including Introduction to Coffee, Barista Skills, and Brewing Skills.

“With our focus on higher-quality coffee, we had to start an academy to teach people not only that we’re selling our coffee to, but also the general public,” Omar says, adding that some Puerto Ricans have historically lacked access to information about the higher costs of specialty coffee and sensory perception.

“Local coffee professionals are eager to advance to the next level and represent Puerto Rico,” says Kathy Muir, the manager of Academia de Café at Gustos Coffee.

A growing number of coffee producers are attending classes at the academy to gain insight into consumer trends and demands, which helps them access new markets and potentially increase their income. Therefore, Gustos Coffee aims to make its classes affordable for producers. 

“High-quality education has a price, but it needs to be fair so that producers feel good about and are able to spend their money on learning,” Kathy says, adding that some have already achieved a return on investment from the workshops.  

Kathy also notes how education creates more conscious coffee drinkers and opens the door for more potential customers. 

“Home baristas have been the academy’s largest and most enthusiastic cohort,” she tells me. “Prosumers recognise how investing in education helps them maximise the value of their home barista equipment.

“We offer grants for students and farmers to take part in our workshops. For example, we recently held a barista workshop for recently graduated high school students from coffee pickers and farmer families so they can find work while they pursue their college degrees.”

It’s clear that coffee holds a profound significance for Puerto Rico and its culture. Despite years of hardship and challenges, the sector remains resilient and continually innovates.

The island is already emerging as a specialty coffee origin, but it will take more time and investment before it can increase production and export levels.

In the meantime, education, ongoing support, and better representation remain key to success.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the future of specialty coffee in Puerto Rico.

Photo credits: Gustos Coffee

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Although its coffee sector is comparatively young, Nepal offers exceptional growing conditions, dedicated producers, and a steadfast focus on producing specialty-grade coffee exclusively. 

As the global coffee market becomes increasingly competitive, roasters are looking for points of differentiation, and Nepal is emerging as a unique origin that could meet this demand.

I spoke with Dhanvie Dugar at Himalaya Coffee Company to learn more.

You may also like our article on whether Nepal will produce more specialty coffee in the future.

Why is Nepal a unique coffee origin?

Nepal’s geography creates an almost ideal environment for specialty coffee production. Nestled between China and India, and home to Mount Everest and the Himalayas, the country’s diverse microclimates, ranging from subtropical lowlands to alpine highlands, provide optimal conditions for arabica cultivation. Most of Nepal’s coffee farms are situated between 1,000 and 2,100 meters above sea level, spanning more than 15 districts, including Gulmi, Arghakhanchi, Palpa, Syangja, and Lalitpur.

The country’s coffee production is concentrated in several key growing regions, each contributing distinct characteristics to the final cup profile. The western districts of Gulmi and Arghakhanchi have emerged as significant production areas, known for their consistent quality and favourable growing conditions. Meanwhile, eastern regions like Ilam and Panchthar are gaining recognition for their unique flavour profiles, influenced by the area’s proximity to the country’s famous tea-growing regions.

Producers across various districts employ a range of organic farming practices, catering to growing consumer demand and due diligence standards, while also supporting efforts to promote biodiversity and enhance coffee quality. Moreover, Nepali coffee has no links to deforestation in its supply chains, aligning with the landmark European Union Deforestation Regulation, which is set to come into effect in December 2025.

Although the National Tea & Coffee Development Board estimates there are 42 coffee-growing districts in Nepal, with a potential plantation area of almost 1.2 million ha, annual production remains relatively low.

“Nepali coffee is rare; our national production is only 500 to 600 tonnes annually,” says Dhanvie Dugar, the founder of Himalaya Coffee Company, a brand of KL Dugar Group, a fourth-generation family business that works with cooperatives and smallholder producers across more than 15 districts in Nepal to source specialty-grade arabica.

A focus on quality

With relatively modest annual production volumes, Nepali producers can arguably pay greater attention to detail and quality control throughout the supply chain.

“Every lot has a minimum cup score of 80 points,” Dhanvie says. “Grown under natural shade, without deforestation, on terraced hillsides, the high altitudes and de facto organic practices allow coffee to mature slowly, increasing bean density and flavour complexity. 

“Because Nepal’s coffee industry is relatively young, our soils remain nutrient-rich and unspoiled,” she adds. “Our coffee undergoes stringent moisture and cupping tests, is stored in climate-controlled conditions, and is packed in Ecotact and jute bags to preserve freshness.”

The predominant varieties grown in Nepal include Bourbon, Typica, and Caturra, with many farms cultivating heirloom varieties that have adapted uniquely to local conditions over several decades. 

Processing methods vary by region and producer, with washed processing being the most common, although natural, honey, and anaerobic fermentation processing methods are also increasingly prominent as producers experiment with different techniques to enhance flavour complexity.

More roasters are looking for a point of differentiation

Today’s global coffee industry presents unprecedented challenges for roasters and cafés. Market saturation, increasing competition, and rising operational costs have created an environment where differentiation is not just advantageous – it’s essential for survival. 

Consumers are increasingly sophisticated, seeking unique flavour experiences and authentic stories behind their coffee purchases. In this context, Nepal represents an opportunity for roasters to offer something truly distinctive that attracts new customers and retains loyal ones.

The demand for unique origins has intensified as specialty coffee culture has proliferated. Roasters who primarily rely on traditional origins, such as Guatemala or Brazil, are discovering that these more established markets can offer diminishing returns in terms of differentiation. 

“Our coffee tells a story; it’s rare, traceable, and deeply human,” Dhanvie says. “With limited production, each micro lot carries the touch of the farmer who picked it and the region it came from.”

Nepali coffees typically exhibit bright acidity, medium body, and complex flavour notes ranging from floral and citrus to chocolate and spice, depending on the specific region and processing method. The altitude and climate conditions in Nepal’s growing regions also contribute to dense beans that perform well across various roast profiles.

“In a saturated market, Nepali coffee offers roasters a chance to stand out through quality, ethics, and exclusivity,” Dhanvie adds. “We also work closely with partners, offering personalised sourcing, flexibility, and full traceability for both small and large businesses.”

Improving market access

Accessing high-quality Nepali coffee has historically presented significant challenges for international roasters. The country’s mountainous terrain, limited infrastructure, and relative newness to the global coffee trade have created barriers to entry for smaller roasters in particular.

Ultimately, working with trusted partners with extensive knowledge of the country’s coffee sector, such as Himalaya Coffee Company, is the most effective way to source Nepali coffee.

“Our mission is to connect the world with Nepal’s untapped potential,” says Dhanvie. “Our logistics team ensures seamless shipping, whether by air or sea. We also host farm visits and tastings to help roasters experience the origin firsthand.”

How the Nepali coffee sector could continue to evolve

Nepal’s specialty coffee sector stands at an inflexion point. The country’s coffee industry has demonstrated remarkable growth and sophistication in a relatively short timeframe. The next decade promises to be transformative as infrastructure development continues, international awareness grows, and production techniques evolve.

As sustainability concerns grow and consumers become more conscious of coffee’s environmental and social impact, Nepal’s predominantly smallholder agriculture and organic coffee production methods align with market trends. Many Nepali coffee farms operate within existing forest ecosystems, contributing to biodiversity conservation while producing exceptional coffee.

Current production levels represent just a fraction of Nepal’s potential capacity. Conservative estimates suggest that suitable land for coffee cultivation could support significantly higher production volumes while maintaining quality standards. However, the industry’s leaders, including established players like Himalaya Coffee Company, are approaching expansion thoughtfully, prioritising sustainable growth over rapid scaling.

“Coffee is gaining momentum in Nepal. With increased awareness and education, more farmers are planting arabica,” Dhanvie explains. “We are investing in advanced processing, fermentation experiments, and training programmes to improve cup scores further.

“Over the next decade, we envision Nepal becoming a boutique but high-impact origin, known globally for its quality and ethical cultivation,” she adds.

Strengthening infrastructure to drive growth

Investment in processing infrastructure represents one of the most significant opportunities for the development of the Nepali coffee sector. While many producers currently rely on washing stations and traditional drying methods, upgrades to processing equipment and techniques could unlock new flavour profiles and improve consistency. 

The introduction of controlled fermentation and improved storage facilities would enable producers to experiment with different processing methods and extend the harvest season.

The development of Nepal’s internal coffee culture also promises to drive sector growth. As domestic consumption increases and local coffee appreciation grows, it lays the foundation for continued investment in quality and infrastructure. Urban centres like Kathmandu and Pokhara are experiencing rapid growth in specialty coffee shops and roasteries, creating local markets for premium Nepali coffee and fostering knowledge exchange within the industry.

International market recognition continues to expand as more roasters discover Nepali coffee and share their experiences with customers. Awards and recognition at international competitions have begun to establish Nepal’s reputation for quality, creating positive feedback loops that encourage continued investment in production standards. 

The country’s participation in global coffee events and trade shows has increased significantly, building awareness and establishing trade relationships. Himalaya Coffee Company, for example, recently exhibited at the 2025 Specialty Coffee Expo in Houston and MICE2025.

Supply chain actors will play a key role

The evolution of Nepal’s coffee sector also depends heavily on continued investment in farmer education and technical support. Organisations and companies play crucial roles in knowledge transfer, helping smallholder farmers adopt best practices for cultivation, harvesting, and post-harvest processing. These educational initiatives not only enhance coffee quality but also increase farmer incomes and encourage ongoing participation in the specialty coffee market.

“Nepal’s coffee sector is emerging, and infrastructure is still developing. Working with a trusted partner ensures reliability, consistency, and peace of mind,” Dhanvie says. “We manage every step of the supply chain, from cultivation to export, with the backing of KL Dugar Group’s 131-year legacy. This gives us the operational expertise and industry experience needed to deliver specialty coffee that meets global expectations.”

Looking ahead, Nepal’s coffee industry appears poised for sustained growth driven by quality rather than volume. The combination of exceptional terroir, dedicated producers, and growing international recognition lays a solid foundation for long-term success. As infrastructure develops and market awareness grows, Nepal has the potential to establish itself as a premium specialty coffee origin.

The story of specialty coffee in Nepal is still being written, but the early chapters suggest a narrative of quality, sustainability, and authentic connection to place. For roasters seeking to differentiate their offerings and provide customers with genuinely unique coffee experiences, Nepal represents an opportunity to be part of an emerging origin’s journey.

As the global coffee market continues to evolve, Nepal’s commitment to specialty-grade production, sustainable practices, and authentic storytelling positions it for continued growth and recognition. The country’s coffee sector may be young, but its potential is vast, promising exciting developments for producers, roasters, and coffee enthusiasts alike in the years to come.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why emerging markets show promise for specialty coffee in a period of price uncertainty.

Photo credits: Rajyavardhan Dugar, Prakash Pandey

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Sourcing from new, exciting origins has always been a unique selling point in specialty coffee, but it’s arguably never been more critical than now. As consumers seek distinctive flavour experiences, roasters need to broaden their horizons and switch up their buying strategies to stand out. 

Africa is home to several major producing countries, such as Ethiopia and Uganda, which both dominate the continent’s coffee market. But it also includes lesser-known coffee origins, like Nigeria, that offer roasters access to untapped market potential.

Once a powerhouse-producing country, Nigeria’s coffee sector has faced a number of challenges over the last few decades, causing production volumes to drop significantly. However, with interest in high-quality Nigerian-grown coffee rising in recent years, the government and key stakeholders are investing in and hoping to revitalise the country’s coffee market – but challenges persist.

To learn more about the potential of Nigerian coffee, I spoke to Abdulrahman Hayel Sayeed, the managing director and co-founder of Green Bean, a coffee sourcing and processing company specialising in the Nigerian market.

You may also like our article on how coffee consumption is changing in Nigeria.

A brief history of Nigerian coffee production

Coffee was first brought to Nigeria, a West African country, by British colonists in 1843. Initially, cultivation was small-scale and primarily restricted to Lagos and the surrounding area.

Throughout the early 20th century, production volumes scaled, particularly in the states of Lagos, Ogun, and Ondo. Nigerian coffee quickly gained global recognition for its exceptional quality and became one of the country’s major cash crops. By the 1950s, it had become one of Africa’s most prominent coffee growers and exporters.

Its position as a leading producing country, however, was short-lived. By the 1970s, production volumes dropped significantly, owing to a number of complex factors like falling global coffee prices, inefficient farm management, and the country’s booming oil industry.

In the decades following, the Nigerian government made multiple attempts to revive the country’s coffee sector. Still, inadequate infrastructure, insufficient investment, and competition from alternative crops continued to pose major challenges. 

Reinvestment in the country’s coffee sector

It was during the 2010s, however, that efforts to reinvigorate production led to some success. To cater to the growing global specialty coffee market, a small number of Nigerian producers started to grow higher-quality coffee.

“Currently, there is an almost non-existent market for Nigerian specialty coffee,” says Abdulrahman Hayel Sayeed, the managing director and co-founder of Green Bean. The company exclusively sources, processes, and exports Nigerian coffee, offering international roasters access to this emerging specialty coffee origin. 

“While the country has not yet reached its previous levels of production, estimated at 400,000 tonnes in the 1960s and now at a current low of 100,000 tonnes, there is a steadily growing demand for Nigerian specialty coffee,” he adds. “As a result, several Nigerian producers are gaining global recognition for their unique lots, and efforts to improve processing and quality are becoming more recognised.”

Today, robusta accounts for up to 94% of Nigerian coffee exports. Robusta is grown across 14 states of Nigeria, including Oyo, Ogun, Ondo, Ekiti, Kwara, Edo, Delta, Abia, Cross River, Akwa Ibom, Taraba, Bauchi, and Jos. Arabica accounts for only 4% of the production and grows in the Cross River, Taraba, and Plateau states. The remaining 2% is liberica, a species of coffee that grows wild in tropical areas of West Africa.

“Nigeria’s annual coffee exports amount to roughly 10,000 tonnes, but this is a long way from the true potential of the country,” says Abdulrahman, who is also the founder of Mokha Not Mocha, a sourcing, processing and exporting operation, which supports Yemeni farmers to gain better market access.

The potential to “rediscover” a hidden gem origin

Many roasters are continuously looking for differentiated origins to stand out in an increasingly competitive market. According to a recent Perfect Daily Grind LinkedIn poll, 56% of roasters said that sourcing from new and diverse origins is one of their current priorities.

“The potential to position and market Nigerian coffee as specialty coffee is substantial, similar to the achievements in Ethiopia and Rwanda,” Abdulrahman says.

In today’s specialty coffee market, having a clear differentiator is essential for roasters looking to remain relevant and drive consumer demand. But given that market access to emerging origins like Nigeria is restricted, working with a sourcing and processing company that partners directly with local farmers, like Green Bean, is crucial.

“Like many African-producing nations, small-scale farming domimates Nigeria’s coffee industry,” Abdulrahman explains. “There are quality control challenges, such as a lack of knowledge of harvesting and processing best practices, that often affect the marketability of their coffee. Inadequate logistics systems and infrastructure also present problems.”

The majority of farms are remote, only accessible by poorly maintained roads, making the transportation of cherries and green coffee complicated and tricky. On-farm, meanwhile, ageing and unkempt coffee plants make it difficult to improve yields and quality.

“Green Bean is working to help overcome these challenges through its direct relationships with Nigerian coffee producers and establishing stringent quality control protocols,” Abdulrahman says. “We aim to leverage our experience in Yemen to set a foundation and a benchmark to produce the highest quality Nigerian coffee possible.

“We’re building good working relationships with producers to understand more about their individual needs, providing best practices training for harvest and post-harvest activities, and organising workshops so that farmers can share their struggles and offer solutions.”

Opportunities for Nigerian coffee are growing

Alongside the growing international interest in Nigerian coffee, the domestic market for high-quality coffee is rising, facilitated by rapid urbanisation and an expanding middle class with higher disposable income. 

It’s estimated that Nigerian consumers drank around 1,000 tonnes of coffee in 2020, which, while a low figure, does represent a 23% increase from the previous year. Although instant coffee is still the most popular option, there is a small but growing coffee shop culture in major cities like Lagos, Abuja, and Port Harcourt. The country also hosted its first-ever national Barista Championship in 2021 – a clear sign of its potential as a specialty coffee consumer.

“There is an emerging movement towards specialty coffee in the country, as consumers actively pursue unique and exclusive flavour experiences. As a result, there has been an increase in the number of specialised coffee shops and artisanal roasters,” Abdulrahman tells me.

Despite being a producing country, Nigeria also imports a significant amount of coffee to meet domestic demand. But its capacity to become a major exporter of high-quality coffee still remains untapped.

“Through investments in quality improvement and sustainable farming practices, Nigerian producers can enhance their competitive edge in the global market,” he adds. The country’s geographical location is ideal for exporting coffee on a global scale, while its diverse climates are highly conducive to growing high-quality coffee. 

The future looks promising

The Nigerian government, determined to diversify its economy and reduce its reliance on oil, has launched several support programmes specifically designed to boost coffee exports, including financial assistance and training initiatives in partnership with the Nigerian Export Promotion Council. 

There is also potential for implementing cutting-edge technologies and advanced processing techniques, reducing production costs and improving yields and quality – thereby increasing the annual value of Nigerian coffee to potentially US $2 billion.

With the growing demand for specialty coffee and unique flavour experiences, producing single origin micro lots could be the unique selling point that Nigerian producers need to discern themselves from other African coffee-growing countries. Naturally, this would require significant ongoing support from the government and key stakeholders.

But key challenges persist

Although the potential to grow Nigeria’s coffee production and export infrastructure is vast, several interconnected, complex factors present barriers to achieving success.

Today, coffee accounts for less than 0.01% of Nigeria’s total agricultural exports. In 2022, the country’s coffee exports totalled US $59,000, with France, Egypt, and Belgium as the leading importers. 

Opportunities to increase exports and, therefore, revenue would have an immense impact on the country’s smallholders, who often struggle with market access.

“Coffee growers face challenges in transporting their beans to processing facilities and ports because of inadequate transportation infrastructure like poorly maintained roads and ineffective logistics,” Abdulrahman explains. “This can lead to delays, increased expenses, and potential damage to coffee beans.”

Despite joining the International Coffee Agreement in late 2021, Nigeria does not have a centralised coffee exchange or a formal system for trading coffee. Furthermore, the small number of buyers of Nigerian coffee (primarily large companies) are often unable to commit to buying one farm’s entire harvest, creating further instability. This has been compounded by a lack of ongoing government support for the coffee sector.

“The lack of quality control methods and certification criteria also affects global market entry,” he adds. “The capacity to process coffee beans for export is limited because producers don’t have access to the proper facilities and machinery.

“Nigerian coffee growers also struggle to identify and reach potential clients and effectively market their coffee due to restricted access to market information and a lack of knowledge about global coffee trends.”

Revitalising Nigeria’s coffee sector will require collective efforts

Change is necessary if the Nigerian coffee sector is to grow and thrive in the future. Government intervention remains essential, especially when it comes to establishing more formalised trade networks and disseminating information and resources for producers to invest in their farms.

“Collaborative endeavours from both public and private sectors aimed at enhancing production and quality and advocating for Nigerian coffee in the global market are helping to revitalise the coffee industry,” Abdulrahman says. “Efforts are being made to assist smallholders, many of whom don’t use chemicals on their farms, to enhance their access to financial resources, agricultural methods, and infrastructure.”

Coffee production in Nigeria has been limited in scale for many years, but it’s set to slowly grow with support from the government and global sourcing partners like Green Bean, helping connect the country’s producers with international buyers. 

“We’re building a foundation needed to scale the accessibility and reputation of Nigeria as an origin. Local farmers are aiming to erect a minimum of 100 raised beds for drying, and the results of the natural and anaerobic fermentation processing were highly promising, with Brix level readings as high as 24 for some of the cherries,” Abdulrahman tells me. 

“Our producers are also partnering with the National Coffee and Tea Association of Nigeria (NACOFTAN), a non-government organisation that brings together stakeholders across the country’s coffee and tea supply chains,” he adds.

Although it will undoubtedly take time, as more specialty coffee roasters add Nigerian lots to their offerings, the country’s potential to make its mark on the industry only increases. With growing interest from global consumers, the government and key stakeholders are also encouraged to invest in production.

In a country that is pushing to diversify its income beyond oil, coffee production could be the economic activity that Nigeria needs to transform. With more awareness of its potential to grow high-quality lots and increased support for producers to employ better farming practices, Nigeria could emerge as a new “hidden gem” origin.

Challenges persist across the board, which makes growing interest in this origin all the more critical. There’s a bright future for the Nigerian coffee sector, but key stakeholders need to offer support for sustainable growth.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring the Nigerian coffee sector.

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However, following years of colonial rule and several devastating hurricanes, the island’s coffee production declined significantly. But in recent years, there has been something of a resurgence – especially with growing higher-quality coffee.

In August 2023, a Puerto Rican coffee received 92 points on Coffee Review – the highest score ever for a Puerto Rican coffee on the website. This marks a momentous milestone for the island’s coffee sector, as well as an indication that quality is only improving.

So could Puerto Rico ever become a more prominent producer of specialty coffee? To find out, I spoke to Domenico Celli Borrero, founder of Forgotten Forest, and Eduardo Trabada, co-founder of Baraka Coffee. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on the rise of Caribbean coffee roasters.

Understanding the historical complexities of Puerto Rico’s coffee sector

Similar to many other producing countries, coffee was first introduced to Puerto Rico while it was under colonial rule. In 1736, Spanish colonial powers brought coffee to the island to grow as a minor cash crop. During this time, most coffee grown in Puerto Rico was consumed locally.

But by the late 19th century, production in Puerto Rico had boomed. At its peak, the island produced more than 30 million pounds of green coffee per year (or 13.6 million kg).

In 1898, however, the US annexed the island from Spanish colonial rule, and coffee production came to a halt. Instead, farmers were incentivised to grow other cash crops like sugarcane and pineapple.

Domenico is the founder of Forgotten Forest, a unique coffee farm in La Cordillera Central mountain range in Puerto Rico. He explains how the US government influenced the island’s coffee sector.

“From the 1950s onwards, there was a concerted effort to rapidly shift the social and economic structure of Puerto Rico, and to create a more modernised economy,” he explains. “This was often carried out in neglect of – and oftentimes in direct opposition to – sustainable local agriculture.”

Since then, the island’s coffee sector has never fully recovered. Despite concerted efforts from local farmers to boost production in the 1980s, spells of economic turmoil and natural disasters (including Hurricane Georges) have had devastating consequences.

A coffee sector still in recovery

According to Domenico, since the 1990s, over 10,000 Puerto Rican farmers have abandoned coffee production in search of more profitable cash crops.

In the 2010s, the island’s production hit an all-time low, and very little was exported. Sadly, in 2017, Hurricanes Irma and Maria struck Puerto Rico – and it’s believed up to 90% of coffee plants were destroyed.

In another devastating turn of events, Hurricane Isaias also hit the island in 2020, which seriously impacted its coffee sector again. Today, there are around 4,000 coffee farmers in Puerto Rico who collectively produce some three million pounds of green coffee every year (1.4 million kg).

“On paper, you would say that Puerto Rican agriculture, and coffee production in particular, is on the verge of extinction,” Domenico says. 

Moreover, the lingering effects of colonisation and strict control of the market means that coffee prices remain low, which further disincentivises farmers not to invest in growing high-quality coffee.

“Most pickers think we’re crazy when we ask them to only harvest ripe coffee,” he adds. “Most of them say it’s impossible to do.”

The Puerto Rican coffee industry today 

Although robusta production in Puerto Rico increased slightly in the 1970s, most coffee grown on the island is arabica. Some farmers also grow small volumes of excelsa and liberica.

La Cordillera Central is the island’s main growing region due to its optimal climatic conditions. Furthermore, the mountain range’s different microclimates produce various flavour profiles which are unique to different terroirs.

Most producers use washed processing methods as Puerto Rico’s tropical climate can make it difficult to carry out natural and honey processing successfully.

But as well as being a producing region, the island also consumes a lot of coffee.

“We drink around 30 million pounds of coffee every year,” Domenico tells me. “But Puerto Rico imports anywhere from 23 to 28 million pounds of coffee from Mexico and the Dominican Republic.”

This is understandable given that production volumes have dropped so significantly over the last few decades. However, there are strict regulations when it comes to importing coffee into Puerto Rico.

As part of a rather contentious relationship due to a complex history between the US and Puerto Rico, the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Puerto Rico Department of Agriculture (PRDA) are the only entities that can legally import green coffee onto the island. 

In turn, many larger roasters, including the Coca-Cola-owned Puerto Rico Coffee Roasters, buy most of this coffee. This monopolises the market, which makes it harder for smaller roasters to become more established. 

Moreover, some larger roasters tend to blend Puerto Rican coffee with lower-quality imported beans.

‘“Most consumers in Puerto Rico have no idea that they have probably never tried 100% Puerto Rican coffee,” Domenico explains. “It’s a source of pride for people, but many have no idea that the island doesn’t produce as much coffee anymore.”

Increasing imports, decreasing exports

Eduardo is a co-founder of Baraka Coffee, a pioneering specialty coffee roaster in Puerto Rico.

He tells me that today, as little as 8% to 10% of total Puerto Rican-grown coffee is exported. In comparison, he says smaller roasters like Baraka export up to 40% of their roasted coffee to other markets.

Moreover, some larger roasters also buy semitostado (or semi-roasted) coffees from the PRDA, which they then blend with locally-grown coffee. While the government states this practice is to prevent pests and diseases (such as the coffee berry borer) from entering the island, others believe it helps to reduce costs and offset falling production volumes.

When it comes to Puerto Rican specialty coffee, the vast majority is exported before local roasters have the opportunity to source beans. Additionally, prices for specialty green coffee are upwards of US $25 per lb, which leads many coffee shops and roasters on the island to buy coffee from elsewhere.

Reinvigorating local coffee culture

In response to what they feel is an often neglected sector, many of the island’s younger producers are turning to specialty coffee production.

Eduardo explains that when Baraka Coffee started in 2014, he knew of only a few producers who were using natural processing techniques. Today, he knows more than a dozen farmers who are trying out more experimental processing methods, or even growing different varieties.

Similarly, younger generations of Puerto Ricans are also becoming more interested in roasting and coffee education. Eduardo says while many panaderias (traditional bakeries) still sell dark roasted coffee, an increasing number of local coffee shops are now offering specialty coffee. Additionally, more coffee businesses are investing in higher-quality equipment and barista training opportunities.

“More coffee shops have started to see that the average consumer in Puerto Rico is becoming more interested in high-quality coffee – and that they don’t just want a pretty-looking latte,” Domenico says.

But improving access to education is also becoming more prominent across the supply chain. Domenico explains that before he started partnering with local farmers, many of them had never cupped or tasted specialty coffee – or even their own beans – before.

In some ways, this is helping to democratise the Puerto Rican coffee sector – and show local producers that when there are improvements to the island’s coffee industry, everyone can benefit.

“It’s about what we call ‘making patria’ – building something that promotes the true essence of Puerto Rican culture through our coffee sector,” Eduardo says.

How are smallholder producers helping to boost Puerto Rico’s coffee sector?

To say that the first-ever 92-point score on Coffee Review for a Puerto Rican coffee is an achievement is something of an understatement. However, it’s also important to note that Coffee Review uses a different scoring system to the Specialty Coffee Association and Coffee Quality Institute, which is less formalised and rigorous.

Domenico, who produced the anaerobic natural “cordial cherry” processed coffee, says the experience was momentous for Forgotten Forest.

“When you’re neglected for so long, you often give up or forget how great you can be,” he tells me. “Here in Puerto Rico, we have knowledge that dates back several centuries, so there’s no reason why we can’t produce world-class specialty coffee.”

Eduardo agrees, saying: “[The 92-point score from Coffee Review] was mind-blowing. Normally, most coffees grown in Puerto Rico score in the low to mid-80s, no matter how you produce them.”

The role of processing

Ultimately, given that post-harvest processing plays a huge role in improving coffee quality, Domenico believes trying out advanced processing methods is one of the ways forward for the Puerto Rican coffee sector.

He explains that Forgotten Forest started as his undergraduate project, which explored how to add value to smaller local coffee farms. But once they discovered the Typica 401 variety growing on an abandoned lot, it was an indication of the potential for high-quality coffee. Some believe that Typica 401 is a mutation of the Typica variety, which was first brought to Puerto Rico in the early 1700s. Although it produces low yields, it has a delicate and complex flavour profile.

Forgotten Forest then decided to plant a Typica 401 microlot, which they were able to quickly scale following extensive local and national media coverage. Today, Forgotten Forest has a growing network of approximately 50 farms, which carry out various agroforestry and organic farming practices. 

Partner farmers also receive seedlings, organic compost, and technical support, as well as access to financial literacy education, a processing mill, and a platform to sell their coffee to international markets.

Facing the challenges ahead

Despite a great deal of promise for Puerto Rico’s coffee sector, the island’s specialty coffee producers continue to experience a number of challenges. These include labour shortages and US federal minimum wage standards, which increase the already high costs of production.

Moreover, there is little investment in promoting Puerto Rican specialty coffee on the global market. Although some organisations, such as TechnoServe, have provided support to producers, aid programmes have long been a contentious topic among some producers on the island. 

Following Hurricane Maria, for example, several organisations distributed millions of seedlings to coffee farmers – but most were high-yielding and low-quality varieties for larger farms.

“There have been cuts to local aid programmes over the last few decades,” Domenico says, “The availability of subsidies, fertilisers, calcium powder, and other common farming inputs have been in decline.” 

Raising awareness

As there is no official Specialty Coffee Association chapter in Puerto Rico, local producers and roasters have started to organise to raise awareness of the island’s specialty coffee sector.

Domenico explains that one solution is “radical traceability”. For instance, Forgotten Forest created a tracking platform where buyers can track its coffees across the entire value chain.

Baraka Coffee also promotes a similar level of transparency which helps to bridge the gap between consumers and producers.

“Producers are doing what they can to keep Puerto Rico’s coffee – and our cultural heritage – alive,” he concludes.

It’s obvious that coffee is incredibly meaningful to Puerto Rico and its culture. Despite years of hardship and challenges, the sector remains resilient and determined to improve. 

It will certainly take some time before the island starts to produce and export more specialty coffee. In the meantime, smallholder producers need to receive much more support and guidance.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on Puerto Rican coffee: The bittersweet history & rise of specialty.

Editor’s note: This article was edited on 17 October 2023 to distinguish between scoring systems for Coffee Review and the Specialty Coffee Association and Coffee Quality Institute.

Photo credits: Baraka Coffee, Sebastian Castillo, Chelsea Cloud, Chris Hamlet

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Sadly, however, production volumes began to decline shortly after for a number of reasons. Today, although the country is not widely recognised for its coffee, its unique tropical climate is well suited for coffee production. Moreover, as a result of climate change, coffee cultivation is becoming more widespread in Sri Lanka. 

Over the past few decades, yields have been steadily increasing. According to data from the Sri Lanka Export Development Board, coffee exports rose by a staggering 84% between 2017 and 2019.

At the same time, the quality of Sri Lankan coffee is also improving. This is largely attributed to industry stakeholders and supply chain actors establishing better connections with producers. In turn, this helps them to implement farming best practices and develop more formal training programmes. 

So how could Sri Lanka start growing more specialty coffee and unlock the full potential of its coffee sector? To find out, I spoke to several industry professionals at the Market Development Facility, as well as three local coffee companies. Read on to find out more.

You may also like our article on specialty coffee in Sri Lanka: from production to consumption.

When was coffee first grown in Sri Lanka?

Coffee was first introduced to Sri Lanka in the early 16th century, but only the plants’ leaves and flowers were used (largely for culinary and ceremonial purposes). It was during Dutch colonial rule (which lasted until 1796) that coffee was grown for consumption, but first attempts were relatively unsuccessful.

However, under British colonial rule, the country’s coffee sector began to expand. It was around 1864 that production peaked – with around 111,289 ha used for growing coffee. Unfortunately, this success was relatively short-lived.

In 1868, a major outbreak of coffee leaf rust devastated Sri Lankan coffee production. This forced many producers to grow tea instead. By the 1890s, the area used for coffee cultivation had shrunk to around 4,609 ha. 

The following century was somewhat of a slow path to recovery for Sri Lanka’s coffee sector, but progress was made. In the 1980s, farmers were growing coffee across 12,140 ha – resulting in the country’s exports reaching a record 3.3 million kg.

Over the past decade or so, there has been significant investment in the Sri Lankan coffee sector, which has helped to steadily increase both yields and quality.

An overview of Sri Lankan coffee production

Today, Sri Lanka grows both robusta and arabica. But production of the latter has grown in recent years – largely due to the efforts of the Department of Export Agriculture in Sri Lanka, which has been actively encouraging arabica production in the central highlands. This area includes the main arabica-growing regions such as Nuwara Eliya, Badulla, Kandy, and Matale.

Rinosh Nasar is the founder and CEO of Soul Coffee Company, which exclusively sells Sri Lankan coffee. 

“Today, while most coffee produced in Sri Lanka is robusta, arabica planting has increased significantly in recent years,” he says. “It’s soon expected that arabica production volumes will surpass those for robusta.”

The main reason for this has been the extensive development of and investment in planting arabica varieties. During the 1980s, the San Ramon variety (which is related to Typica) was intercropped with tea, followed by Catimor in the 1990s and Lakparakum in the 2000s.

The Lakparakum variety in particular is preferred by farmers because of its high yields, uniform ripening patterns, and tolerance to coffee leaf rust, as well as its potential for high cup quality.

Other common arabica varieties grown in Sri Lanka include S9 and HDT.

When it comes to exports, the country’s Export Development Board states that the US, Middle East, Maldives, Australia, China, and Japan are some of the major markets for Sri Lankan coffee.

What about processing methods?

Post-harvest activities, including processing techniques, are believed to be responsible for up to 60% of final cup quality. This means they are vital to consider.

Kushan Samararatne is the general manager at Colombo Coffee Company, a total coffee solutions provider in Sri Lanka.

“Washed and natural processing methods are the most common,” he says.

However, in the early 2010s, there were only a few processing facilities (as well as roasting companies) across the country. In turn, most producers process coffee on their farms.

Subraja Subramaniam is part of the Research, Impact, Measurement, and Inclusion (RIMI) team at the Market Development Facility. Funded by the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, MDF is a multi-country initiative that promotes sustainable economic development throughout the Pacific region, including in Sri Lanka.

“Most of the country’s coffee that is exported is processed on farms, and producers generally use natural sun-drying processing techniques,” she says. “The country’s centralised processing system also uses washed processing methods, which tend to receive higher cup scores and better cup quality.”

Opportunities to improve coffee quality

Like in many other coffee-growing countries, Sri Lankan producers face certain challenges when it comes to scaling yields and improving quality.

MDF defines four key opportunities to invest in Sri Lanka’s coffee sector:

• Scaling coffee-growing areas
• Expanding coffee smallholder groups and improving quality on farms
• Developing processing facilities
• Improving industry coordination and promotion

It’s estimated that up to 80% of the island nation’s total coffee production comes from smallholder farmers, who are more likely to require additional support and improved access to financial resources.

Additionally, women represent about 60% of the workforce, so ensuring gender equity initiatives are in place is essential. This is particularly important because closing the gender gap in coffee production could increase global output by 4%. This equates to around 30 billion extra cups of coffee per year.

Deshan Wickremasinghe is the Business Advisor for the Coffee Unit at MDF. 

“The main barriers to the growth of the Sri Lankan coffee sector are low yields, inconsistencies in quality, and limitations to producer knowledge,” he says. “While there are 23 large regional plantation companies in Sri Lanka, they are mainly focused on producing tea and rubber. 

“However, they are actively diversifying their crops, and coffee is one of the major crops that producers are considering growing,” he adds.

Around 200,000 ha is currently used for tea cultivation in Sri Lanka, yet marginal and unproductive land has been left abandoned. Converting small parcels of this land to coffee cultivation could help boost production levels significantly.

With a focus on processing methods in particular, there is also huge potential to develop the country’s centralised processing facilities. In theory, this would help to better maintain uniformity of green coffee, as well as preserve quality and minimise waste.

A focus on training and education

Vishan Rajakaruna is a Business Advisor for the Coffee Unit at MDF. He emphasises how farming best practices are integral to growing higher-quality coffee.

“Farmers need to be educated on plant maintenance, such as pruning and applying nutrients, to ensure healthy plant growth,” he mentions. “They also need to be trained on selective picking techniques to harvest only ripe cherries, while also understanding how certain harvesting and post-harvest management practices can impact quality.

“To enhance farmer knowledge, we must also share information with them about how the specialty coffee market functions,” he adds.

Kushan agrees, saying: “Developing overall coffee quality in Sri Lanka requires a multi-faceted approach which focuses on implementing best practices, raising awareness about the financial benefits of complying with these practices, increasing knowledge sharing, and investing in better infrastructure and equipment.”

Beyond production, however, there are other ways to support the Sri Lanka coffee industry – as increasing domestic consumption is crucial, too.

For instance, local roasters need to know how to source high-quality coffee, as well as how to best roast and store coffee. At the same time, coffee shop owners and baristas need to receive formal training and have access to high-quality equipment. Eventually, this could lead to more Sri Lankan baristas competing at an international level, including at the World Coffee Championships.

Could Sri Lanka become a more renowned specialty coffee origin in the future?

Considering its history and the recent level of investment in farmer training, it’s certainly evident that Sri Lanka has plenty of potential to grow higher-quality coffee – as long as producers receive the right support.

Tharanga Muramudali is the founder and Chairman of Helanta Coffee, a coffee farm and processing facility in Sri Lanka. 

“There is a clear production gap when it comes to Sri Lankan specialty coffee,” he says. “Harvest volumes are too low, so we need to encourage farmers to plant new trees.

“There is also a knowledge gap regarding harvesting and processing techniques,” he adds. “Baristas also need to be upskilled as they have the potential to be the face of Sri Lankan coffee on a global scale, especially at events and competitions.”

Along with other industry stakeholders, MDF has played an important role in supporting these areas of the country’s coffee sector – including publishing the Sri Lanka Arabica coffee value chain analysis report and Sri Lanka’s Coffee Renaissance: A Guide to the Specialty Coffee Industry.

“MDF has been a key player in the Sri Lankan specialty coffee sector over the past few years,” Rinosh explains. “The organisation has been actively partnering with supply chain actors in the Sri Lankan coffee industry, and has been championing its growth. 

“Today, MDF is a pivotal stakeholder in developing the sector even further by providing funding for projects, sharing technical knowledge, and offering specialised support services,” he adds.

Increasing the market for Sri Lankan specialty coffee

Vishan explains that MDF attended the 2022 Melbourne International Coffee Expo, where it showcased Sri Lankan specialty coffee on a global scale. 

“There was a very positive response – people enjoyed the unique flavour profiles,” he tells me. “Sri Lankan coffee usually has notes of orange with pleasant acidity and a very good body.

“The expo generated a lot of interest in Sri Lanka as a specialty coffee origin, with Sri Lankan coffee receiving cupping scores as high as 86 points,” he adds.

Given its history, Sri Lanka has plenty of potential to keep growing higher-quality coffee. Moreover, with improved access to resources and more formal training opportunities, the future seems promising.

However, for production to grow sustainably, the country’s coffee sector needs ongoing support – most notably when it comes to scaling coffee-growing areas and improving best practices for processing methods.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on micro lots & Monsoon Malabar: India’s future as a coffee origin.

Photo credits: Market Development Facility, Upcountry Brothers

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Primarily a tea-growing and drinking nation, coffee production is still relatively new to Nepal. According to the Nepalese government’s National Tea and Coffee Development Board (NTCDB), it was only between the 1980s and 1990s that coffee was grown on a commercial scale in the country.

The NTCDB reports that in the 2021/22 harvest season, Nepal produced 354.9 tonnes of coffee. While this is a decline from the record 530 tonnes produced in 2018/19, production volumes have been increasing in recent years.

The country grows high-quality arabica – and there is clear potential that specialty coffee production could increase, too.

Bhavi Patel is a dairy technologist and food and travel writer, who has been writing extensively about the global coffee industry for some years now.

In this article, she explores the Nepalese coffee sector, the challenges that local farmers face, and whether the country can grow more specialty coffee. 

You may also like our article on micro lots & Monsoon Malabar: India’s future as a coffee origin.

When was coffee introduced to Nepal?

Similar to India and other producing countries, coffee is not native to Nepal. It’s believed that in 1938, nomadic hermit Hira Giri brought coffee seeds from Burma (now known as Myanmar) back to Nepal.

Hira Giri is said to have planted the seeds in Aapchaur – a hill village in the Gulmi District. However, it took another thirty years for coffee production to start increasing in the country when the Nepalese government imported coffee seeds from India in 1968. 

Throughout the following decade, small-scale coffee production spread to other regions of Nepal, including Palpa, Syangja, Kaski, and Baglung.

Commercial coffee production in Nepal

By the mid-1980s, however, farmers started to grow coffee on a commercial scale. Between 1983 and 1984, the Nepal Coffee Company (NeCCo) was established in Manigram in the Rupandehi district. This meant local farmers could collectively process and dry mill their coffees for export, which helped to boost production volumes.

Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, more and more farmers started to grow coffee. In response, Nepal’s Ministry of Agriculture launched the Coffee Development Programme, which provided technical and financial support to local producers.

Today, the International Coffee Organisation estimates that across 42 districts in the country, there are over 32,500 households involved in coffee production. Moreover, research from Specialty Coffee Nepal, a non-profit organisation which promotes Nepalese specialty coffee culture, says that some 45% of coffee farmers are women. 

The Kavrepalanchok district in eastern Nepal is the largest coffee-producing region in the country – spanning 273ha and producing more than 32 tonnes of coffee. The second-largest coffee-growing district is the Gulmi district in western Nepal, which spans 231ha and produces 27 tonnes of coffee.

Common varieties and processing techniques

Nepal’s climate and landscape make it ideal for growing arabica – mostly because of its high altitudes. In fact, many industry professionals say only arabica grows in Nepal.

Surya Dura is the founder and Managing Director at Lake City Coffee in Pokhara, Nepal.

“About 80% of the coffee produced in Nepal can be categorised as specialty-grade coffee,” he says. “In the 2022/23 harvest season, coffee production is expected to increase to about 400 tonnes.”

The most common varieties found in Nepal are Bourbon, Pacamara, Typica, Caturra, and Catimor – certainly an indication of high-quality coffee.

Most farmers use washed processing methods, however, more producers are experimenting with natural and honey processing techniques. In recent years, anaerobic natural fermentation has started to become more popular, too.

Generally speaking, Nepalese coffee has unique floral and chocolate flavour notes, with some distinct nuttier flavours. The biggest importers of the country’s coffee are Germany, Japan, the US, South Korea, and the Netherlands.

How do people drink coffee in Nepal?

Historically, Nepal is a tea-drinking country. However, coffee consumption has been steadily growing for some years.

“Nepalese baristas working in other countries help to promote homegrown coffee,” says a representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal. “More and more coffee events are also happening in the country, which also helps to bring people from across the value chain together, as well as drawing more attention to Nepalese coffee.”

In line with this, there are more specialty coffee roasters, coffee shops, and education facilities opening in Nepal. A representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal tells me that some of the most notable specialty coffee roasters in the country include Mount Brew Coffee, Nya No Specialty Coffee, Brewshala Coffee, and many more.

Deepak Paudel is a renowned coffee professional in Nepal. He is also the founder of the Pokhara Coffee Roastery.

“Because it is often easier and quicker to learn barista skills than any other profession in the coffee industry, more and more younger people show interest in the position,” he says. “Some of them are also moving to other countries to broaden their skills so they can return to Nepal after a few years and potentially open their own coffee shops.”

Deepak adds that many Nepalese baristas work in Middle Eastern countries or in Australia, where specialty coffee culture is particularly popular.

Popular drinks and brewing methods

As in many other countries, milk-based drinks – such as cappuccinos and lattes – are popular among consumers in Nepal.

However, in recent years, more and more Nepalese coffee shops are using manual pour over brewers. As part of this, we’re seeing more baristas push to get formal training to improve coffee quality, as well as roasters offering classes and educational courses.

Furthermore, coffee consumers in the country are also showing more interest in preparing café-quality drinks at home – with some taking part in coffee workshops. Companies like Brewing House distribute and supply equipment to coffee businesses and consumers alike.

Challenges in the Nepalese coffee sector

Although figures indicate a steady increase in Nepal’s coffee production volumes in the coming years, farmers in the country still face a number of challenges.

As with many other producing countries, Nepalese coffee farmers are dealing with the effects of climate change and a shortage of workers.

Global warming poses several concerning issues for Nepal’s coffee sector. For instance, unpredictable rainfall and frost often damage cherries and blossoms on branches, which can heavily affect quality and yields.

Moreover, the impact of climate change also increases coffee plants’ vulnerabilities to pests and diseases – in particular the white stem borer (Xylotrechus quadripes). 

The Gulmi district underwent a white stem borer epidemic in 2016, which severely affected coffee producers in the region. In some cases, farmers in Nepal have reported up to 60% loss in annual yields because of the insect, which lays its eggs in the branches of coffee plants. Eventually, the plant stops producing cherries and dies.

Even more concerning are the long term effects of climate change on Nepal. Research from Kunming University suggests that Nepal will see a significant shift in its agroclimatic zones over the next few decades. In turn, this could result in up to 72% of the country’s coffee-growing areas becoming unsuitable by 2050.

Labour issues

Many origin countries are currently experiencing labour shortages in their agricultural sectors, including for coffee.

The representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal explains that in Nepal, there are three major reasons for labour issues:

• Low wages
• Lack of formal training and education for farming best practices
• Waning interest in working in agriculture

“Another issue in the Nepalese coffee sector is workers moving to other countries for employment,” Surya says. 

Fluctuations in market prices also lead to further difficulties, which is why some farmers choose to join co-operatives. Co-ops provide a number of benefits to their members, including improving access to several markets, formal training programmes, and farming inputs.

Tulasi Raj Dhital is the founder and chairman at the Central Coffee Co-operative Union Ltd. (CCCU) in Kathmandu, Nepal. 

“The prices that farmers receive for cherry and parchment coffee are fixed by the NTCDB in coordination with other stakeholders, including co-operatives,” he explains. “This means that members know beforehand what they will be paid.

“This helps to ensure co-operative members get a fair price for their coffee,” he adds. “We also help producers understand new farming techniques that help to improve yields and plant health.”

How could the Nepalese coffee sector grow over the next decade?

Ultimately, if coffee production is to become more sustainable in Nepal, farmers need to know how to adapt to the effects of climate change by implementing more climate-smart agricultural practices. Intercropping coffee with other plants, such as bananas, could also be beneficial as they can provide much-needed shade cover.

“If we could plant more coffee using proper farming techniques, as well as planting new varieties, then Nepalese coffee production could grow on a much larger scale in the next decade,” Surya explains. “Improving knowledge, planting a wider range of varieties, and encouraging more young people to take part in coffee production are the three main ways we can grow the country’s specialty coffee sector.

“Specialty coffee production has just started in Nepal, and it’s still yet to gain a big market, but it could happen soon – Nepalese coffee has a lot of potential,” he adds.

The representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal tells me that measures to provide more formal training are already underway.

“Some agricultural institutions in the country have already started including a coffee-focused syllabus as part of their curriculum,” they say. “Farmers need to have proper training, as well as more awareness about planting, harvesting, and processing coffee in the best possible ways.”

Tulasi believes that the country’s government also needs to provide more support to coffee farmers.

“Strengthening and improving logistical and transport facilities would be immensely helpful to coffee farmers,” he tells me.

What about driving consumption?

When it comes to education, Deepak says that it also plays a key role. He explains that he is working hard to attract the attention of the Specialty Coffee Association, which he believes would help baristas and roasters, as well as coffee farmers, to gain better access to different training programmes and events.

In terms of coffee competitions, Deepak believes that Nepal could one day host its own National Barista Championship or AeroPress Championship.

“Nepal already has national champions, but they’re representing other countries,” he tells me. “There are many local coffee competitions taking place, so it shouldn’t be too long before we reach the world stage.”

It’s safe to say that there’s plenty of potential for Nepal to scale its coffee production. And with more people drinking specialty coffee than ever, the future certainly looks promising.

However, at the same time, it’s also clear that for both production and consumption to grow sustainably, Nepal’s coffee sector needs more support – especially when it comes to adapting to climate change.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the white stem borer: a threat to the Nepalese coffee industry?

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According to Index Mundi, Liberia’s coffee production peaked at 209,000 60kg bags in 1985. But in the years since, coffee production has dropped considerably for a number of complex reasons. As part of this decline, more farmers are growing more profitable cash crops instead, such as cocoa and natural rubber.

However, when it comes to its coffee production, Liberia is perhaps best known for Coffea liberica: a coffee species that produces large cherries. In part, this helps to enhance the sweetness of liberica, as well as prolonging its aftertaste. In recent years, these qualities have helped to increase liberica’s presence in the specialty coffee sector.

To learn more about whether Liberia’s coffee sector can grow in the coming years, I spoke to two local experts. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on Coffea liberica.

A history of coffee in Liberia

In order to understand the Liberian coffee sector, we first need to take a look at the country’s complex history.

Indigenous people have been living in West Africa for millennia, including in Liberia. Archaeologists have found clear evidence that human activity dates back to the Lower Paleolithic period in the region.

However, Liberia’s population increased significantly in the early 19th century. Under the guidance of the American Colonisation Society, former slaves in the US migrated (albeit some of this was forced) to Africa. 

The organisation, which was founded in 1816, was designed to encourage liberated slaves to leave the US – but mainly for prejudiced and discriminatory reasons. Understandably, many African Americans strongly opposed the organisation, however, others believed that migrating out of the US could result in them facing less social and legal oppression.

Many former slaves who migrated (whether willing or unwilling) settled in Liberia. In 1848, the country elected Joseph Jenkins Roberts as its first president, but it took another 14 years to globally recognise Liberia as an independent state.

However, there was clear division between US migrants and indigenous Liberian communities, such as the Kru and Grebo people. This was for a number of complex reasons, including establishing plantations and forcing indigenous people to work as slaves.

As a result of forced labour, as well as receiving significant investment from the US, Liberia’s exports began to increase. While most of these exports were rubber, the country also traded small volumes of coffee.

Following a military coup in 1980 and an insurrection in 1989, however, the country entered decades of civil unrest and conflict. As well as the devastating impact on the country’s coffee sector, thousands of people died.

A brief history of Coffea liberica

Although Liberia mostly grows robusta, it is arguably more well-known for another coffee species: liberica.

According to the 2022 research paper The re-emergence of Liberica coffee as a major crop plant, liberica is indigenous to most of the tropical regions in West and Central Africa. 

It’s believed that after growing wild for centuries, liberica seeds were disseminated from Ghana, Liberia, and Sierra Leone in the 1870s for wider commercial coffee production. In turn, several Southeast Asian countries started to grow liberica instead of arabica, which was under threat because of coffee leaf rust outbreaks at the time.

The paper also states that between 1880 and 1900, global production volumes of liberica were similar to that of arabica in some countries. This was mostly because liberica is a robust, high-yielding plant which can grow at low elevations and produce large cherries – which made it favourable among farmers.

However, liberica’s popularity proved to be short-lived. Following concerns over poor quality, there was a significant drop in demand for liberica. This is was mostly related to the large size of the cherries, which made it difficult to process them.

Understanding coffee production in Liberia

Robert Kollie is the Board Chair at Green Future Agro Inc. in Liberia.

“Coffee producers in Liberia grow robusta and liberica,” he says. 

Robusta mostly grows in central and northern Liberia. Some of the biggest coffee-producing regions include Nimba, Lofa, Bong, Grand Cape Mount, River Gee, and Margibi.

“At our co-operative, we sell seedlings and planting materials to farmers,” Robert explains. “We also provide technical support to farmers, and if a producer wants to manage their own farm or start a coffee business, we help them to estimate costs.”

However, because of years of conflict, many farmers abandoned their coffee farms.

In an attempt to revitalise the country’s coffee sector, the International Trade Centre (ITC) helped to disseminate some 4,400 seedlings to farmers. However, it’s clear that more work needs to be done.

Tyler Papula is the co-founder and CEO at Liberica Coffee Company in Liberia. He also works in partnership with Save More Kids as a Campaign and Project Co-ordinator, as well as with the SMK Agricultural Co-operative. The latter helps to provide agricultural training to farmers, as well as assisting with farm rehabilitation and infrastructure improvements, with the aim of increasing coffee quality and quantity.

He tells me that it’s common to find coffee growing wild in forests in Liberia – especially liberica. However, it can be anywhere from difficult to impossible to harvest the cherries because the plants grow so tall.

When it comes to coffee processing, Robert explains that there is a significant gap in technical knowledge and access to resources.

“There are only a very small number of processing facilities in Liberia, but even they aren’t well equipped,” he says. “Most of our farmers send their coffee to the Ivory Coast or sometimes Guinea.”

How is coffee processed and traded in Liberia?

After harvesting, almost all cherry is left to dry in the sun on patios. Following this, some farmers then export their cherry to the Ivory Coast, where it will be dry milled.

Robert tells me that Green Future Agro is working to enable more farmers to dry mill their own coffee, thereby retaining more value.

“After a training session we attended in Togo, we imported a coffee milling machine which can process dried cherry,” he says. “We plan on buying the machine so that we can better support our farmers.

“The farmers will pay a small fee at the end of every month so that we can process their coffee,” he adds.

Prior to the First Liberian Civil War, the Liberian Produce Marketing Corporation (LPMC) was responsible for the country’s agriculture sector, including coffee. The organisation handled a number of tasks, such as providing producers with farming inputs, carrying out quality control checks, inspecting farms, and managing exports of coffee.

However, in the years since the Second Liberian Civil War, the LPMC has struggled to regain full control of coffee exports. In turn, some farmers in Liberia cross the border over to Cote d’Ivoire or Guinea to sell their dried cherry.

Other producers sell their dried cherry to agents, who then transport the coffee to the Ivory Coast, Guinea, or Sierra Leone, where it is sold. Ultimately, this means most of the coffee produced in Liberia isn’t consumed domestically. 

Does Liberia roast and consume coffee?

Robert tells me that there are no real commercial roasters in Liberia.

“We want to change this,” he says. “We try to encourage farmers to taste their own coffee.

“As part of this, the ITC held a workshop on how to operate a roaster and coffee shop,” he adds.

The majority of coffee consumed in Liberia is imported from neighbouring countries. And while there are no coffee shops, some hotels and restaurants serve coffee. For the most part, people drink instant coffee, including Nescafé.

“We plan to open our own coffee shop,” Robert says. “This means Liberian farmers will be able to taste their own coffee.”

Addressing challenges

Tyler says that many of the issues which Liberian coffee farmers face are complex.

“The country’s coffee sector is somewhat disorganised,” he says. “Moreover, people don’t see Liberian coffee as being high quality.

“The biggest challenge is changing the mindset of producers,” he adds. “Some farmers are excited at the prospect of improving coffee quality and yields, but others are still hesitant.”

Moreover, there is a distinct lack of access to financial support for many coffee farmers, which means it’s difficult to acquire farming inputs like fertilisers. Ultimately, until access to resources and financial support improve, coffee quality and yields can’t increase.

Improving access to resources and support

“There is little support from the government,” Tyler explains. “This makes coffee production very difficult – farmers need access to loans, as well as more co-operatives providing seedlings to them.

“There also needs to be improvements to Liberia’s overall infrastructure,” he adds. “This way, we can encourage more entrepreneurship and mitigate corruption as well.”

For instance, the road infrastructure in some producing areas is poor, which means farmers can’t transport their coffee to processing facilities or to the capital city of Monrovia for export.

And while interest in liberica from the specialty coffee sector has increased recently – notably as a result of 2021 World Barista Championship finalist Hugh Kelly’s routine – production volumes are still too low to meet rising demand.

Robert believes that the way forward is to encourage farmers to add more value to their coffee – mainly through processing and roasting.

“For farmers, processing coffee themselves, and then roasting and tasting it, will allow them to be more engaged in growing coffee,” he says. “However, first and foremost, we need to provide high-quality farming inputs and seedlings.”

Liberia’s history is deeply complex, and the country’s coffee farmers continue to face a number of challenges. Ultimately, if things are to improve, access to financial support, infrastructure, and resources need to increase considerably.

“We have lots of land available for coffee production,” Robert concludes. “There are a lot of mountainous regions which are suitable for growing high-quality coffee, but a support system for farmers is seriously lacking.”

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Despite its small size (approximately 57,000km²), Togo has a diverse climate. While the northern part of the country is more dry and arid, central Togo is home to many plateaus and mountainous regions which are suitable for coffee production.

Like many other West African countries, Togo’s economy is significantly dependent on agriculture – with coffee, cotton, and cocoa being the major cash crops. Cotton is by far the country’s biggest export, while coffee accounts for around 5% of its export revenue. 

Sadly, a substantial lack of investment in the Togolese coffee sector has forced many farmers to abandon production altogether. In turn, many Togolese coffee plants are becoming older and less productive.

To learn more about Togo’s coffee sector, and the challenges which producers face, I spoke with two local professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article exploring coffee production in Sierra Leone.

A brief overview of coffee production in Togo

Compared to other coffee-producing countries in Africa, Togo has a relatively short history of coffee production.

It’s believed that coffee was first cultivated in the country during the 1920s, when the country was under French colonial rule.

For the first few decades, the country’s coffee sector was controlled by several foreign exporters who purchased coffee directly from producers. However, after the formation of the Togo Office of Agricultural Products (OPAT) in 1964, the Togolese government started to oversee and manage production.

According to the International Coffee Organisation (ICO), OPAT was largely responsible for marketing coffee to international markets and setting annual domestic prices for coffee, while domestic marketing was managed by private sector stakeholders. Under this model, former exporters became coffee buyers.

During the 1980s, as per figures from the ICO, coffee production in Togo reached an average of around 260,000 60kg bags per year – a figure that has since steadily decreased for a number of reasons. In the early 1990s, according to the ICO, low coffee prices and less productive farms and plantations led to market liberalisation. Ultimately, this resulted in a number of radical reforms in Togolese coffee production – which included more simplified quality control measures.

Amuzu Koffi Mensah is an operations manager at Café Kloto, a roaster which sources coffee from the Togolese highlands. He tells me that coffee is the country’s second-largest export crop.

“More than 40,000 households in the country work in coffee production,” he says. “The major producing areas are in the southwest of the country in the Agou, Kloto, Danyi, Amou-Okposo plateau, and Wawa regions.”

Today, Togo mainly grows robusta – most of which is grown by smallholder farmers who also produce cocoa. For many years, the country’s robusta was highly sought-after thanks to its high quality, but over time, demand has steadily decreased.

Prior to 2000, the total acreage of Togo’s coffee production was 40,000ha, but this has since halved. Amuzu explains that many coffee trees in the country are very old and have become incapable of producing high yields.

In 2017, the ICO reported that Togo produced 6.9 million tonnes of coffee. However, by 2020, this volume had plummeted to 2.4 million tonnes, representing a drop of nearly 35% over a three-year period.

Many Togolese producers grow an old robusta variety which is locally referred to as “Niaouli”. It’s believed that this robusta variety was first cultivated under colonial rule in the 1920s. 

“After harvesting and drying, coffee is sent to a processing plant,” Amuzu says. “Here, it undergoes natural or washed processing.”

Support for Togolese coffee producers

Historically, there has been a distinct lack of government support for the country’s coffee farmers, which has made it difficult for smallholders to gain access to fertilisers and other agricultural inputs. 

Furthermore, the coffee sector’s market liberalisation has largely favoured more established farmers who grow higher volumes of coffee – granting them more access to finance and resources.

Today, the Coffee and Cocoa Sector Coordinating Committee (CCFCC) is responsible for the management of coffee production in Togo. The CCFCC provides farmers with access to training and education, but its system is largely still more beneficial to larger producers.

Local farmers say that there is support from private sector stakeholders to improve access to agricultural inputs, but this is often minimal. Moreover, demand for these resources remains relatively low as many farmers are unable to afford them.

In recent years, the Coffee and Cocoa Technical Unit (UTCC) developed an extension services system that provides support to farmers in more rural areas. As part of this initiative, trained professionals are sent to coffee farms to assist producers with agricultural best practices.

Currently, the UTCC operates an office in Kpalime – a town in southwest Togo. The office trains specialists for each of the country’s eight administrative districts. In turn, these district specialists train and supervise technical advisors who work in each of the country’s coffee-growing regions.

Marketing and value addition

According to Amuzu, around 98% of Togo’s coffee production is exported, with major importers including France, Belgium, Germany, Italy, and Poland.

However, Covid-19 had a significant impact on the country’s coffee sector, which led to a steep decline in exports. Amuzu also believes that the situation was exacerbated by the mismanagement of funds for its coffee sector. 

“Moreover, domestic coffee consumption remains low because of a lack of technical and financial support,” he adds.

A steady decline in demand for Togolese coffee is undoubtedly adding to existing issues, too. In spite of this, there is a growing focus on increasing domestic consumption of Togolese coffee, with a number of initiatives in place.

Father François Komi Amouzou is the coffee processing manager at the Abbey of the Ascension in Dzogbégan, which is located in Togo’s plateau region. Here, monks have been growing arabica, robusta, and hybrid varieties since the 1970s – largely motivated by the purported medicinal effects of coffee, but also by the number of visitors the monastery receives.

“The original idea was to grow and process coffee for our own consumption, as well as for visitors,” he explains. “However, we then decided to sell roasted coffee for the local community.

“We want local people to experience the flavours of Togolese coffee,” he says. “We currently roast around eight or nine tonnes every year.”

For the most part, the majority of coffee consumed in Togo is instant coffee. Father Francois tells me that there are no coffee shops in the plateau region, but the Abbey is attempting to shift local perceptions about drinking higher-quality coffee.

To help increase local demand for Togolese coffee, the Inter-African Coffee Organisation (IACO) partnered with the CCFCC to establish coffee kiosks in the capital city of Lomé, with plans to extend the project to other areas of the country.

As part of the same initiative, some Togolese roasters take part in training workshops held in Gabon.

Addressing challenges in the sector

Amuzu explains that the lack of technical support for harvesting and post-harvest processing is a serious issue for smallholder producers.

“In addition to this, improving quality control measures is a major challenge in Togo’s coffee sector,” he adds. “There are few local processing units that meet good hygiene standards, and access to finance is also a big issue.”

Furthermore, the sector is also facing a labour shortage. Koffi believes that this is because many young people in the country don’t view coffee production as profitable enough, causing them to search for work opportunities in more urban areas.

To overcome some of these challenges, Togolese authorities largely rely on surplus coffee production that can be sold in the following year. Moreover, the proposed National Development Plan (PND) aims to focus on improving processing methods to add more value to coffee, as well as boosting local consumption.

Amuzu believes that the CCFCC plays an important role in strengthening Togo’s coffee sector – particularly by encouraging more women and young people to take part in coffee production.

He adds that the CCFCC is also directly addressing Togo’s ageing coffee tree population. The committee has so far replanted more 300ha of coffee trees, as well as grafting thousands of seedlings onto existing rootstocks. 

As well as these programmes, the Centre for Agronomic Research for Forest Zones (CRA/F) has cultivated seven new varieties, although volumes are still too low to disseminate to farmers across the country.

Despite many historic and current challenges, the Togolese coffee sector has shown that above all else, it is resilient. And while there is certainly potential for its robusta to increase in quality, more support will certainly be needed to help smallholder farmers in Togo improve their agricultural practices.

With the appropriate level of financial and technical support, Togo’s coffee producers may be able to improve quality and yields, and thereby help to gradually grow the country’s coffee sector. 

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on fine Togolese cacao.

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Japan has a rich history of coffee consumption. From the opening of the first kissaten in the late 1880s to the emergence of third wave coffee culture in the early 2000s, the country has a longstanding relationship with coffee.

However, as well as this, a small part of Japan also technically lies in the Bean Belt, meaning it has the right climatic conditions for coffee production. The Okinawa Islands, located some 26 degrees north of the Tropics, are home to around 30 coffee farms which produce small quantities of green coffee.

To learn more about this small-scale production in Okinawa, I spoke to several local farmers. Read on to find out what they had to say about Okinawan coffee.

You may also like our article on exploring Japanese coffee shop culture.

A brief history of coffee production in Japan

It’s believed that coffee cultivation first began in Japan around 1876 on the Ogasawara Islands (also known as the Bonin Islands), which are an archipelago of over 30 subtropical and tropical islands around 1,000km south of Tokyo.

Japanese samurai and admiral Enomoto Takeaki is said to have initially proposed the idea of growing coffee on the islands to the Emperor Meiji’s government which was in power at the time. Following this, 500 coffee saplings were shipped from the Netherlands and planted on farms in the Ogasawara islands.

Some six years later, the first coffee plants were cultivated in Okinawa. However, as coffee is not native to Japan, initial trials were mostly unsuccessful. This is largely because producers had very limited knowledge and expertise, as well as little financial and technical support.

Moreover, in the early 1900s, many rural Japanese workers migrated to Brazil in search of work. A large proportion of these migrants actually worked on coffee farms, where there was a notable labour shortage.

Naturally, this meant that many of these agricultural workers came to understand more about coffee production – some of which later returned to Japan.

As such, today, many of Okinawa’s coffee trees can be genetically traced back to native Brazilian varieties.

A profile of Okinawan production

As it was not especially profitable, coffee production in Okinawa was initially more of a hobby, rather than a means of sustainable income. However, it has slowly grown over the last 120 years, and there are now about 30 coffee farms across the Okinawa Islands.

Most coffee is grown in the northern Yanburu region of the main island, however, a small number of plants are also cultivated on neighbouring islands.

The majority of Okinawan coffee is shade grown and intercropped with other tropical plants such as mango and banana. Furthermore, coffee is produced at very low altitudes, usually between 150 and 500 m.a.s.l.

Takuyuki Matayoshi is the President of Matayoshi Coffee Farm in the Yanbaru region. He tells me that he only grows arabica plants on his farm, which are mostly the Yellow Bourbon variety, with a smaller number of Red Bourbon plants. 

“Yellow Mundo Novo is also another common variety in Okinawa,” he adds.

Cherries are typically harvested from October to April. Once picked, each farm generally processes their coffee on-site.

Takuyuki explains that he uses mostly natural and honey processes at Matayoshi Farm, but notes that other methods are sometimes used by farmers in Okinawa.

What makes this coffee unique?

Although Okinawa is by no means a major coffee producing region, the expertise on the island and the conditions mean it does have the potential to yield high-quality beans.

The island’s unique terrain and climate can impart desirable flavours to the coffee – with some producers and roasters claiming that no two harvests yield the same results. As well as this, some producers are carrying out more experimental processing methods to increase quality.

Yoshiyuki Nakamura is the owner of Mame Porepore, a roaster based in Okinawa. He also placed second in the 2018 World Roasting Championship.

“I enjoy the different flavours in the coffee each year,” he tells me. “I think that Okinawa’s coffee production is still developing, so farmers’ knowledge and skills will continue to improve.”

Takuyuki describes some of the prominent flavours and qualities of Okinawan coffee.

“It’s easy to drink, with notes of black tea and a clean and refreshing aftertaste,” he says. “Also, because it grows at very low altitudes, the beans are soft which affects how it’s roasted.”

However, unfavourable weather conditions (such as typhoons) mean that some harvests can produce very low yields. Takuyuki explains that sometimes this means that no coffee can be sold.

However, in some cases, 100g of Okinawan coffee can cost up to ¥4,300 (around US $32). 

In turn, this means many local consumers are not able to afford it, but there is growing interest from Tokyo coffee shops and roasters, as well as further afield.

Agrotourism & Okinawan coffee farms

As Okinawa is a prominent tourist destination, some coffee farms on the island have capitalised by doubling as agrotourism ventures. Many provide guided farm tours and some even have spaces for visitors to stay.

These tours can be an integral part of coffee production in Okinawa as they can help to diversify farmers’ income – especially when harvests are lower than expected. 

“We invest money in running guided tours so we can also reinvest back into our farms,” Takuyuki says.

By offering these experiences, guests can tour farm facilities and understand more about the coffee supply chain.

Takayuki and his team run guided tours and educational workshops about coffee farming and processing. This, he says, ultimately helps to raise awareness. Visitors are also encouraged to participate, and drink some of the farm’s coffee as part of the process.

“Guests are then able to understand how much effort goes into one cup of coffee,” Takuyuki explains.

Unfortunately, during the pandemic, Okinawan tourism saw a sharp drop in revenue, which ultimately impacted producers, too. Alongside low yields, Takuyuki tells me that it’s been difficult for some producers to remain profitable.

Could it be successful on an international scale?

While there are a number of challenges facing Okinawan coffee production, arguably the biggest one is scale. With just 30 coffee farms across the island, it is hard to see it ever becoming anything beyond a niche coffee origin which blends cultivation with agrotourism.

However, to try and improve its international presence and share its unique insight, some local farmers have established the Okinawa Coffee Association – which is based at the University of Ryukyus on the main island.

Founded in 2014, the association carries out research, as well as holding seminars and workshops, to disseminate more information to Okinawan coffee producers and beyond.

The association’s ultimate goal is to improve the island’s agricultural practices, as well as providing more technical and financial support from the Japanese government. Effectively, it encourages farmers to not only grow, harvest, and process their own coffee, but to also market and sell it themselves in an effort to boost the local economy. 

Furthermore, in 2020, the association hosted the first ever Okinawa Coffee Summit. At the event, local producers – as well as coffee farmers from Taiwan – were able to network and share their expertise, and hopefully establish more profitable coffee production for the island.

While Japan will never be able to fulfil its consumption with domestically-grown coffee, it’s clear that Okinawan coffee is worth talking about. In the years to come, support from groups such as the Okinawa Coffee Association could see the islands begin championing a new niche, signature agricultural product.

Furthermore, despite the challenges of growing coffee on the islands, the producers there are clearly resilient. They are experimenting, and quality continues to be a part of the conversation.

Yoshiyuki is certainly right in saying: “The highlight of Okinawan coffee today is how it will grow and develop in the future.” But what exactly the future will hold remains to be seen.

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